Solo Trek across Nepal.

Nepal always fascinated me because of Mount Everest and the fact that i was finally visiting this small mountainous country made me feel like a anxious child awaiting a long anticipated holiday.Nepal has a geographic variation in elevation ranging from the Terrai region of Chitwan which is just 60 meters above sea-level to the World's highest mountain Mount Everest at 8,848 meters above sea-level.Within a short traveling span in Nepal a person can experience climatic conditions ranging from Sub-tropical to arctic, bizarre and a fact of life.After visiting one of the world's oldest and holiest city's of Varanasi i next went to Nepal and a brief account of the same is documented for posterity as well as a guide for future solo-backpackers.

VIEW OF HIMALAYAS FROM THE  " Guna  Plane".

Friday(11-11-2011):-Had a half-insomniac night as usual waking up early at 0500hrs.A quick bathe, got dressed and left the hotel at 0615 hrs, boarding a rickshaw(Rs 80) to Varanasi station.Early as usual but to my horror at the last minute the train arrival was changed to platform Nos 3 from platform Nos 2, the original destination of arrival.Quickly made my way to the overhead bridge realizing that i am not as weak as i look, boarding the train in time at 0800 hrs.The train was delayed by one and a half hours and i reached Gorakhpur at approx 1315 hrs instead of 1200 hrs, the normal travel time.While alighting the train at Gorakhpur station i saw a fellow Caucasian lady back-packer ahead of me and picked up a conversation with her.Jennifer.Benediba, a Parisian was also heading to Kathmandu and from strangers we became acquaintances, sharing our views and ideas throughout our entire journey by a overcrowded public bus from Gorakhpur to Sunauli.Jennifer was a professional backpacker,literally living life from a backpack kit carrying "Backpacker Luggage" that would shame a sturdy man. She lived for two years in a trailer in Australia, earning as well as traveling the country.She was in India to study "Vipassana meditation", and had Hindu traditional beads around her neck and was off to Kathmandu for the same.Our conversation was so intense and deep that it seemed we knew each other for years let alone a few minutes,a real synchronization of similar thinking and wave-length.On reaching Sunauli we alighted the bus and caught a cycle-rickshaw towards the Nepal Border.Jennifer had to get her Visa endorsed and hence we departed later meeting at the local restaurant on the border where i booked my bus ticket(Rs 325) and got my Indian currency changed into Nepali currency(Rate of Exchange= 1 IRs= 1.6 NRs).I had a noodle soup, my first snack since leaving Varanasi early in the morning, akin to the "Bears" of the stock market ,living on hibernation fat of my body!Akin to "Kungfu monkey style" and "Kungfu Snake style" martial arts where animal maneuvers are utilized similarly i was copying the bears style of winter hibernation in my diet habits while on "Solo back-packers tour".Jennifer decided to catch the next bus and we bid Adieu, two strangers from different cultures sharing wonderful thoughts and ideas.I had also booked my hotel accommodation at "Red Planet hotel(Kathmandu)(Rs 500/Day)" in advance, boarding the bus at 1800hrs.The bus seating arrangement was horrible, akin to common buses and it was a slow painful journey towards Kathmandu, painful torture.The bus was also moonlighting as a lorry, regularly loading cargo on its roof-top making me wonder as to its horse-power capabilities for climbing the steep elevation to Kathmandu.Dinner was at approx 2230hrs at a dabba type ramshackle restaurant where i ordered a non-veg thali(NRs180),absolutely horrible and stale food, a real rip-off.What surprised me most was that this terribly overloaded bus actually reached Kathmandu without any mechanical breakdown at approx 0230 hrs,very early.The driver stopped the bus a few kilometers away from Kathmandu to gain some sleep as he didn't have a relieving driver, bizarre and dangerous traveling, a normal way of commuting in Nepal.In Nepal, besides trekking, traveling by local transport along the numerous narrow mountain road inclines and declines is a dangerous adventure by itself, a sheer driving mistake meaning a plunge into a deep mountain gorge.Thankfully the weather was also cold which made the most uncomfortable bus journey i undertook in recent years tolerable, not causing me a breakdown.

Saturday(12-11-2011):-At approx 0545 hrs , a labour gang came over and off-loaded a part of the bus cargo and then exactly at 0600 hrs the driver woke up and we began our onward journey to Kathmandu.It was an end of a 24 hours odyssey of continuous travel from Varanasi to Kathmandu, first by train and then by road, definitely as dangerous or better than trekking through a Himalayan mountain in Nepal.At the bus terminus my hotel car was not in sight and hence the bus manager phoned the hotel and informed them about my arrival in Kathmandu.A Taxi- car later came over and drove me to "Red Planet Guest House" situated in a by-lane in the heart of Thamel, a very convenient location.In Nepal the cheaper budget economy hotels catering to the "Backpacker Tourist" are normally always called "Guest houses", and in Thamel itself there were numerous "Guest Houses" indicating the competition amongst these lodging establishments in one of the World's busiest tourist hubs.I realized the difference when i spotted another "Red Planet Hotel" in the posher locality of Thamel and on inquiring with the manager Puspa regarding two hotels having the same names, hence confusion to tourists, he was quick to point out that the other hotel was "Red Planet Hotel" while his was "Red Planet Guest house" .Whats in a name? This argument solved the "Copyright Clause" of "Red Planet" in Thamel.The manager introduced me to a fellow traveler Mr Ashok.Agarwal, a regular businessman from Rajasthan and told us to share the accommodation temporarily as the check -in-time was from 1200 to 1200 hours noon.After a quick luke warm-water bathe since the "Solar Heater" was less effective i dressed into normal attire.Thanks to Mr Agarwals local phone i managed to ring home and contact house-keeper Sabina.Dias, inquiring about the welfare of my non-human children, my cats Matahari and Matata and parakeet mittoo.Non-pet owners might consider me eccentric or crazy for being so attached to my pets as to keep the house maintained just for them, since as a bachelor i could always lock my house when away from Mumbai But, don't some people leave their entire wealth to their pets? Call me crazy, weird or eccentric but honestly, without my pets i wouldn't be what i am today, my non-human companions in sorrow crisis as well as joy.Later, after depositing my cash at the hotel safety locker with the manager i made my way towards the city.Took my laundry along and gradually walked along the streets of Thamel, a typical tourist haunt with exotic handicraft and mountaineering shops besides numerous tourist agencies.Had a breakfast of Omelet/parathas at a local shop meeting a Chinese couple, the lady's Americanized accented English making me realize that china is progressing in leaps and bounds in integrating into a Globalized economy.She told me that Chinese was the official first language in China akin to Hindi in India, English being the second language.Higher education in China was also in Chinese unless students opted for an English education, hence India has a definite advantage in World communication due to Indians having a powerful average English vocabulary at the University level.Its an official fact that India and China are going to emerge as the future economic giants on the world Global stage with English being the main link language of World economics.After breakfast walked along one of Thamels lanes coming across a laundry and giving my two pants for cleaning.From the cleaners walked aimlessly then turned onto Kantipath road, suddenly stumbling across a sign reading "Organic Market" reminding me of the "Organic Market" at Mahalaxmi race-course in Mumbai.

"1905 Restaurant & Bar".

On entering the premises i was transferred into an entire different aristocratic old World premises, a bungalow like structure with 1905 imprinted on it having lush green lawns, a small stream with swimming ducks and a throng of tourists, locals and foreigners selling their food wares and vegetables. The "1905 Restaurant bar" was once an aristocratic club with elite membership even hosting Queen Elizabeth-2 in the 1960's.It was now a posh restaurant that had a "Organic Farm Fair" on its lawns every Saturday with both, locals as well as tourist settlers of Nepal selling their exotic ingeniously manufactured food products and vegetables, an identical copy of the "Mahalaxmi race-course organic farm" shows in Mumbai. In one corner of the palatial garden was a "Dog Adoption" welfare hoarding along with some charitable organizations displaying animal welfare items for sale. On inquiring about the organization named "Dreams,nurturing nature(www.dreams.org.np)" got to know that its founder principal/treasurer was Mrs Prerana.Shah.Rana, a member of the once ruling family of Nepal.

Mrs Prerana.Shah.Rana  of the former Royal Family of Nepal with her animal welfare  organization.

 She was  a former runner-up of the "Miss Nepal- 2003" beauty contest also competing in "Miss Asia Pacific-2003" and placing within the top 10.She was also a certified Yoga instructor and hence had maintained her slimness in 2011.She and her husband Toby.Rana are ardent nature lovers and hence started "Dreams" which also has an Indian connection with Smt Maneka.Gandhi, well known former politician and Indian wild-life activist being the adviser of this nature organization in Nepal.First, i was surprised at her height, much taller than me and later reading her biography realized she was six feet tall, the tallest Nepali girl contestant in any beauty contest.The lady spoke to me in a very normal manner explaining me about her organization and animal welfare in Nepal, the first time in my life that i had ever spoken to Royalty or an ex-royal.The previous princely person i met was at the "Indian National Kennel Club" dog shows held in Mumbai in the 1980's/1990's where the "Rani of Jhamkhadi", an aged lady from the former extinct Indian princely province of Jhamkhadi displayed her kennel of pekingese dogs.She carted her beautiful pekingese dogs all the way from Pune while i displayed my own prized dachshund bitch "Lucky".Mrs Prerana.Rana introduced me to her co-colleague, a British lady Linda.M.Sherpa and so began a conversation on animal welfare and pets.I told them about my non-success in trying to form a "CAT CLUB" in India and the reasons for Indians not forming a "Cat club" was a mystery even to them as many Asian country's have "Cat clubs".Strolling through this posh club and visiting the various "Organic Stalls" i finally sighted a stall selling home-made chocolates and purchased a packet costing Rs 100 later exiting out of this vintage and historic location on to the main road. Finally saw a a cybercafe and began blogging my memories before i forgot the same.Blogged for approx 2 hrs, lucky that there were no power outages,a very troublesome nuisance especially with Internet blogging.After blogging walked down the same road in the reverse,the route leading back back to my hotel in Thamel.Had a glass of sugarcane juice, my choice of food and drinks being severely restricted due to my delicate stomach constitution, not wanting a outbreak of diarrhea to ruin my strenuous and memorable "Solo-Backpackers tour".Reached my hotel at approx 1530 hrs.The hotel manager had confirmed my booking for the "Everest Mountain Flight" with "Guna Airlines" on Sunday(13-11-2011) at 0700hrs.I paid him the amount of NRs8240, converting 50 Pounds into Nepali rupees, the final total amounting to almost NRs 9000 including a chauffeured taxi service to the Airport.As a "Solo-Tourist", traveling becomes very expensive compared to "Group Packaged Tours", hence i compensate the same by staying in cheap hotels rather than the 3 or 2 Star hotels that are normally provided by "Group Tour Company's".Another personal expense is "Private Tour Guides" at historical sites or tourist locations, something i never "Penny-Pinch" regarding my "Solo-Tour Budget".The manager also installed a 14" T.V in our room and the programmes were normal cable T.V programmes, something for entertainment in the hotel room."Red Planet Hotel" is situated in the heart of Thamel, the tourist hub of Kathmandu with main downtown locality of Durbar Marg and famous "New Annapurna Casino and hotel" just a ten minutes walking distance, absolutely lively with foreigners, restaurants and curio shops.After a short rest in my hotel strolled around Thamel and for a late lunch had "Fish momos(NRs 145)" in a decent Nepali restaurant,very subconscious about my stomach diet.On my return to the hotel purchased a "Nepal Tourist Guide(NRs 150)" map from a hawker.Reached my hotel at approx 1700 hrs and decided to call it a day for sightseeing or loafing, the evening ambient temperatures suddenly dropping, the weather absolutely chill.Watched television and later co-room partner Mr Agarwal returned and we gossiped as usual.I skipped dinner, watched television late into the night and also studied the tourist city map of Kathmandu, planning my future tourist destinations.Continuous non-stop traveling for the past two days must have had an effect on my sleep patterns and for the first night since the beginning of my tour i had a contended nights sleep.

Entering the "Guna Mountain Flight plane".

Sunday(13-11-2011):-Woke up at 0500 hrs, brushed my teeth and got dressed up for the days tour itinerary.The driver arrived at 0600 hrs and we drove to "Tribhuvan International airport".Reached the airport by approx 0620hrs, a dull and cloudy day with a slight continuous drizzle of rain.I was just hoping that the weather conditions would not ruin my once in a life-time childhood dream of viewing the Himalayas .The Nepal domestic airport "Baggage Security Check" was less cumbersome than the "Delhi Metro Railway" security checks.My flight "GNA-002" was scheduled for 0700 hrs departure and checked in at the airlines boarding pass issuing counter where to my utter disbelief the airline ticket issuer typed a wrong name, changing me into a lady.After the bizarre "Train Ticket issue error " fiasco in Mumbai which forced me to re-schedule my entire tour schedule i have become a bit careful of reading between the lines for any ticket or document.Hence i spotted this ghastly and funny error in time before it could cause embarrassment as well as personal nuisance for boarding the flight.The ticket issuing lady corrected the mistake and issued me a new boarding pass ticket,apologizing for her mistake.The flight was delayed by an hour as the weather condition in Nepal was bad, a continuous drizzle with a dark overcast sky.I was hoping that the days mountain flights would not get canceled, let alone inability to view the Himalayas due to bad weather.

Mt EVEREST FLIGHT" Certificate :-"BEEN THERE AND SEEN  THE HIMALAYAN MOUNTAIN RANGE".

                                                                    Finally our plane got permission to take-off and sixteen of us tourists, all Caucasians barring a lone Malaysian with professional camera equipment made our way to the Guna airlines plane.Each of us had a window seat and the plane took off at approx 0810hrs.It was an absolutely dull morning and the first fifteen or twenty minutes of flying was just amongst the clouds, no mountain range in sight, very disappointing to me. Then, suddenly, akin to a mirage, the white snow-capped mountains came into full view in the bright early morning sunshine and i felt i was viewing a movie or a painting rather than the beautiful Himalayan mountain range.All tourists went berserk with their camera's including me, very lucky that the weather had suddenly cleared and the sky in the Everest region of Nepal was bright and shining.Each of us tourists were allowed a visit to the cock-pit where the pilot explained us the various mountains visible, most important being Mount Everest which resembled a pyramid from the plane's cockpit.I removed a few video's as also photographs, memories for a life-time.The "Everest Mountain Flight " lasted an hour and we were back again to Kathmandu Airport at approx 0910 hrs.Each of us were handed a certificate as proof of having completed the "Mount Everest Mountain Flight", an amazing and unforgettable experience, definitely a mandatory tour itinerary for visitors to Kathmandu.Reading the "Kathmandu Post" newspaper the next day i realized that we were lucky to have made the flight as almost a 100 domestic flights and as manny as 3 International flights were canceled on Sunday(13-11-2011) in Nepal Airport due to poor visibility and bad weather.After disembarking from the plane we were driven to the arrival lounge where i booked a taxi to the Pashupatinath temple complex situated close to the airport terminus.Taxi fares are very exorbitant and the short distance of just approx 2 to 3 kms cost me NRs 300, same paid at the airport taxi stand, hence genuine and also proving one of the reasons of "Group or Package" tours being much cheaper compared to "Solo Tours", especially in developed First World country's.

"Pashupatinath Temple" complex.

Arrived at Pashupatinath temple complex at approx 0945 hrs and had my breakfast at a hawkers dabba situated on the road leading to the temple complex.Breakfast consisted of 2 boiled eggs, channa massala and a loaf of bread costing me only NRs50 while the taxi ride cost me NRs300, bizarre personal solo-tourist budget expenditure!After breakfast had two good cups of tea(NRs 20) and made my way towards the temple complex.

Cremation Ghat at Pashupatinath temple complex.

On my way to the complex a local Nepali guide approached me and i decided to seek his guidance in exploring this famous Hindu holy site and tourist complex.Mr Sunil.Thapa the guide was good at his job since i myself am an un-official self-studied historian and hence knew about the importance of Pashupatinath temple although not a Hindu, besides, this was my first visit to Nepal.He showed me the "Old Age Home" in the temple complex and also the charitable home run my the nuns of "Mother Teresa's Charitable Society" adjacent to it, the only christian institution that i observed in Kathmandu.We later visited the cremation ghats and he explained me the different allocations for cremation depending on rank or status of the individual.

The former Royal Family of Nepal had a special cremation ghat which is now vacant after the demise of Royalty in Nepal and the installation of Democracy, now only prominent political people being cremated at this once Royal cremation site.The last royal cremation on this ghat was witnessed world-wide after the horrific murder carnage in the Nepal royal family. Strangely, the Bagmati river banks situated on either sides of the cremation ghats was colonized by monkeys.These monkeys loved playing in the cold waters and also searching for food in the murky shallow river stream.The river was absolutely polluted with plastics and rubbish , besides all the cremated ash was later disposed into this narrow river stream, a normal cremation custom.Later, he showed and explained me the various memorials built for different kings explaining me the religious significance of the monuments in the temple complex.There were also deep caves in a hillside on the banks of the Bagmati river of the Pashupatinath temple complex where Sadhus meditated and taught yoga to their followers.A famous Sadhu of the Pashupathinath complex was the "Milk Baba" who only drank milk throughout his life and spent half the year in America akin to other famous Godmen. He explained me the route to Boudhanath Stupa temple situated about 45 minutes from Pashupati and hence decided to visit the same.After paying Sunil.Thapa his guide fees of IRs 100 i made my way towards the Boudhanath Stupa temple complex having to climb a series of step up a hill from the base of Pashupatinath temple complex. On the way i saw dozens of monkeys, absolutely bold and flourishing, none of them looking either starved or weak also photographing a unique monkey with its baby, almost bizarrely statuesque in pose.The steps later wound downhill and i exited from the Pashupati temple complex onto the main road,exploring my way to Boudhanath Stupa temple complex.Enroute to Boudhanath Stupa complex , at approx 1200 hrs i came across a cybercafe and made a phone-call home to Mumbai, very cheap through "Internet Telecommunications" costing just Rs 2/ minute!In Nepal,Internet facilities are excellent compared to the relative poverty and economic backwardness of the country, really astonishing, only handicap being frequent power cuts which disrupts internet connectivity.After spending approx 2 hours at the cybercafe i headed towards the straight road leading to Boudhanath Stupa temple.Saw a roadside restaurant where a lady was frying a local specialty similar to doughnuts but without the sugar coating.Purchased two of these hot local doughnuts(NRs 20) which were absolutely delicious.Finally reached Boudhanath Stupa complex a real majestic Buddhist temple complex, the largest Stupa in Nepal standing on a 3-tiered platform.The entry ticket was NRs 40 and after purchasing the same made a detour of the entire complex which consisted of handicraft shops and Tibetan restaurants and monastery.For the first time in my life i got to understand a bit of Tibetan Culture and social customs by just observing the temple devotees turning the religious wheels installed at the sides of the temple.This was the first time that i observed a religious ceremony of Tibetan Buddhist monks and worshipers.After spending approx an hour at the temple complex headed towards the main road to get transport back to Thamel.Pashupati Temple complex guide Mr Sunil.Thapa had told me to board a bus or local taxi from Boudhanath Stupa complex road to Ranipokhari junction, the nearest city center to the tourist hub ,Thamel.Managed to board a local jeep taxi that charged me NRs20 and had no restrictions regarding the passenger intake, crowded to the edge.Surprisingly,even decent well dressed ladies traveled in these congested but convenient and cheap semi-private transport, not just the poor Nepali.Finally reached Ranipokhari junction at approx 1600 hrs, the last stop of this public taxi service called "Micro-Bus Service".Walked towards Thamel and on the way came across a lot of motorcycle shops, entering the local Yamaha dealers shop.Motorcycles are very popular in Kathmandu and for the first time viewed the "Yamaha R6" on display in the showroom.This 600cc ,4 cylinder/4 stroke engine cost NRs 16,96,000 only, a real luxury in this country.Reached my hotel at approx 1645 hrs, refreshing myself and relaxing.Later had a absolutely chilled water bathe as the "Solar Heater" was non-operational due to lack of sunlight!Spent the rest of the evening watching television.The hotel manager Mr Puspa.Nath.Acharya later informed me about the advance booking for the "Bungy Jumping" excursion to the "Last Resort".The total cost amounted to NRs 6140 approx and the programme was scheduled for Wednesday(16-11-2011).Later in the evening i strolled around Thamel, a unique tourist locality of Kathmandu that resembles the narrow cobbled streets of Europe, clean and tidy compared to the rest of the city, a ultra posh locality of Kathmandu.Discovered a small restaurant "Tibetan Nepali Kitchen" in one of the by-lanes of Thamel and decided to have dinner.The restaurant though small in size was doing brisk business, mostly tourists.I ordered a "Pork/Thali(NRs150)", the first time in my culinary experiences that i ever came across such a dish concerning Indian origin cuisine.The uniqueness of the "Nepali Thali" is that it is similar to the average vegetarian thali common in India except that a non-vegetarian dish of one's choice is added to this normal vegetarian meal.I had selected the right dish and it was one of the best meal that i had eaten since my "Solo-Tourist tour", delicious and suitable to my palate.After a voracious meal including a double helping of rice and vegetable curry i re-traced my journey back to "Red Planet Tourist hotel".At the hotel changed into my night-clothes and spent the rest of the night watching television.My room partner Mr Ashok.Agarwal arrived late from Patan, his business center and i suggested that i make the trip with him tomorrow morning as Patan was the oldest city in the Kathmandu valley.

Summit of "Peace Pagoda" mountain in Pokhara with beautiful "Annapurna Mountain Range" in the background.

Monday(14-11-2011):-Had a good nights sleep, bowels normal despite over-eating at "Tibetan Nepali Kitchen" the previous night.Had a breakfast consisting of two boiled eggs and tea costing NRs50 at the local daba just adjacent to "Red Planet tourist hotel".Later paid Hotel Manager Puspa the amount of NRs 6140 for the "Bungy Jumping" expedition to the "Last Resort".At approx 0800hrs Ashok and myself made our way out of the hotel and boarded a taxi for Patan.The taxi ride was approx 20 minutes and got a feel of Kathmandu city and its outskirts, narrow roads with small buildings and no skyscrapers.On reaching Patan Mr Ashok guided me to the main city Darbar Square, a "U.N.E.S.C.O" World heritage sight.As we were early all shops were closed and we visited a ancient temple, the entire city of Patan being a city of numerous small and big temples.We took a photograph together, memories for posterity, a chance meeting of two total strangers.Mr Ashok.Agarwal then departed for his daily business work while i loafed around the Durbar square photographing and videotaping.At a street side hawkers shop, while browsing through some pictorial handicrafts came across a miniature copy painting of the entire "Kamasutra", boldly depicted in pictorial art,definitely a tourist attraction.Wandered through the local bazaars in Patan and was really surprised at seeing a small temple at almost every street corner in this ancient and historic Nepali city.Came across the local butchers shop and saw pieces of buffalo meat on display for sale, an open air meat sellers market.In Nepal eating beef is taboo and hence it is only "Buffalo Meat" and not bullocks that is sold as beef in the markets and restaurants.I was surprised at the open display of "Buffalo Meat" akin to Crawford market in Mumbai since a majority of Nepalis are vegetarian or non-vegetarian Hindus proving the fact that there is a tolerance in individual cultural culinary habits.A certain faction in Nepal wants Nepal to be declared as a "Hindu Country" akin to "Islamic Country's" which proves the dominance of Hinduism in Nepali culture and daily living.Discovered a "Internet Cafe" opposite the butchery shop, an excellent cafe with web-cam, headphones facilities.As i mentioned , the "Internet" facilities in Nepal are one of the cheapest and best in the World, absolutely bizarre for a third World developing country and excellent for its future progress.At approximately 1030 hrs left the cybercafe and made my way through the Bazaar into "Patan Durbar Square".

Entered the "Patan Durbar Museum" after purchasing an entry ticket of NRs 75, and got to study Hindu philosophy and culture.The Patan museum building in Patan Durbar Square has been reconstructed according to the original designs and materials with the help of the Nepalese and Austrian Governments in order to preserve this World Heritage sight.The Museum had exhibits of Hindu and Buddhist Gods mostly cast in Bronze and gilt copper , the traditional crafts of Patan.Honestly, after touring the entire museum i understood Hinduism and Buddhism much better, every exhibit in the museum being well explained in corresponding text .Observed a prodigy Nepali boy displaying his skills on the tabla in the museum courtyard, the same being taped by a television crew and photographed by me.The museum was crowded with tourists and Patan Durbar is definitely a tourist itinerary on a visit to Kathmandu.After touring Patan museum i made my way back through the crowded bazaar street and to the bus terminal.In Nepal the common mode of transport is by jeeps or matador vans and was lucky to immediately board a matador van to Raniphokhari junction, the main bus terminus for tourist locality Thamel.The ride to Ranipokhari cost Rs 15, very normal compared to the Rs 200 by taxi and since it was the starting point i managed to get a seat in the packed matador van.At Ranipokhari had a buffalo chow mein(NRs60) and a orange juice(Rs 50) later walking to my hotel in Thamel, a distance of approximately one and a half kilometer.After a shower and a little rest went to "Hotel Backpackers" to collect my laundry.At that hotel collected a brochure for a gambling casino called Hotel Anna casino, deciding to visit the same just for a peep since after having visited Macau in 2005, any other gambling city barring Las Vegas would seem passe!Later in the evening explored the narrow alley-ways of Thamel and its adjoining Assen locality.The streets of Kathmandu are very narrow akin to Mumbai's narrow Bazaar streets, crowded with people, street hawkers and vehicles.Photographed the normal marketplace in Assen, inquiring about the cost price of common meat and fish.The average meat products cost prices were as follows, Mutton(NRs 450/Kilo),Buffalo(NRs 200/Kilo), Chicken(/bNRs 200/Kilo),Pond Fish(NRs 170/Kilo) and Mushrooms(Rs 200/Kilo).Daily market food products in any city intrigues me since i personally do my house marketing in Mumbai and hence keep in touch with prices in London as well as Kathmandu!Returned back to my hotel and spent the evening watching t.v.

Tuesday(15-11-2011):-Woke up early as usual and had a cup of tea at the adjacent dhaba situated besides "Red Planet Tourist hotel"."Red Planet" is a three storey hotel resembling a palatial private residence catering to both foreign as well as local tourists.Later Mr Ashok.Agarwal and myself had our breakfast in this Dhaba and he proceeded to his business destination Patan while i walked my way to "Kathmandu Darbar Square".Reached Kathmandu Darbar Square at approximately 0845 hrs, very early as shops in Kathmandu open mostly after 1000hrs.Kathmandu Darbar Square was similar in design to Patan Durbar square except that there were more hawkers in the Darbar vicinity.Took a few photos, most prominent being of "Kalbhairavi", situated in the main Durbar Square temple complex. Later purchased a local handicraft of a human head(NRs200) carved from bamboo tree, bizarrely artistic although cheap.As usual, with ample time at my leisure strolled on a discovery trail around "Kathmandu Darbar Square" discovering the famous "Freak Street" of the "Hippy Era" of the 1960's/70's. Remember evergreen actor Dev.Anand's hindi film "Hare Rama Hare Krishna"?Some of the best and cheapest music shops can be found in Thamel and Freak street, experimental, jazz, mantra, tantra and rock, everything is available at Thamel and Freak street.Decided to step into a cybercafe and blog until t at historical sites or tourist locations, something i never he shops open rather than roaming aimlessly and hence found a cybercafe at "Freak Street" and as usual recollected my memoirs.After blogging for approx an hour,i made my way towards the "Kathmandu Darbar Museum".Entry ticket was expensive at Rs 250 NRs and there were very less tourists, myself having a privileged view of this ancient palace between approx 1045 to 1230 hrs..A complete history of the Nepal dynasty of kings was displayed ,fascinating to a student of history, definitely boring to a non-historian student.Also viewed the accounts of the wild-life hunting of the kings a few trophy's on display.For the first time saw the legs of elephants,zebra,antelope being used as ash-trays or lamp-shades.To us in the 21st century these hunting trophy's might seem perverse, a crime against wild-life, but, upto early 20th century ,hunting wild-life was a common luxury sport amongst the aristocracy and wealthy , akin to golf or polo in the 21st century.Although Nepal is today a democratic Republic,the preservation and display of its Monarchy history is excellent.After visiting the museum had lunch consisting of pork fried rice(Rs 120) at "Ginger Cafe" in Freak street(Jochhe).After lunch decided to visit the Swayambhunath Buddhist park and asked locals for directions to the same.Boarded a "Matador bus" at Ranipokhari and reached Swayambhunath temple at approx 1330hrs.There were three giant statues in the park, the center statue being Buddha.After approx an hour made my way back to the "Matador bus stand".In Kathmandu there are no public buses and the common mode of transport for the common Nepali is the "Matador Bus".Boarded an empty bus and had to wait for the gradual influx of passengers as these buses are privately managed and can't afford losses due to lack of passengers.The ticket to Ranipokhari was the normal Rs 15 and finally reached my hotel at approx 1500hrs.As there was sunshine during the day the solar heating was effective and managed to have a luke-warm bathe, real refreshing after trekking in Kathmandu city.Later in the evening strolled among the by-lanes of Thamel and discovered a miniature version of the giant Boudhanath temple.Thamel is a locality with manny streets and by-lanes, some parts of Thamel especially J.P Street cater to an exclusively wealthy tourist crowd while others cater to the average back-packer tourist.The Cybercafe Internet charges in Thamel are also much expensive than other localities of Kathmandu, averaging NRs60/hour compared to the normal Rs 25\hr at other localities outside Thamel.Dinner was at "Tibetan Nepali Kitchen", this time trying their "Chicken Thali",excellent for the cost.Returned back to my hotel at 1830hrs later relaxing to television,anxious of my date with "Bungy Jumping" on Wednesday(16-11-2011).
Wednesday(16-11-2011):-Woke up early at 0500 hrs and after the normal daily routine dressed and got ready to board the bus to the "Last Resort".The 'Red Planet Tourist Lodge" is situated in a very convenient locality in the heart of Thamel.The boarding point was outside the "Himalayan Bank" on the main road just outside the hotel by-lane.Reported at the bus station at 0545 hrs, punctual as usual and was told by the tour operator that there were three buses for the adventure tourists,all three buses being Tata 709EX turbo vans,excellent long-distance mini-buses.After our bus was loaded we departed at approx 0630 hrs, the distance to the "Last Resort" being approx 100 Kms from Kathmandu city , situated close to the Nepal/Tibet border.Met a former employee of the "Last Resort", an Austrian named Alex and he explained me a bit of the functioning of this unique private adventure tourist resort.At the "Last Resort" approx 40 bungy jumps are done a day, thrice a week during peak tourist season,without mention, safety was the prime concern of the "Last resort".The roads on the outskirts of Kathmandu towards Bhaktapur were well paved and later it was a medium drive past Baneshwar road and Koteshwar road before reaching the forested mountainous roads heading towards the "Last Resort".There were a few police checkpoints on the way ,otherwise it was a slow cruise at approx 20 to 30Kms.At approx 0750 we stopped at a "Teahose Daba" for breakfast at a place called 'Jirokilo".After breakfast we made our onward journey through absolutely scenic mountain scenery with the river flowing on the other side of the road.This river water was pure unpolluted white water, hence the term "White water rafting".Traveled approx 78 Kms ,reaching Khavichaur town at approx 0910 hrs.Finally approaching closer towards our destination observed the dam across this river, the flow of the stream water restricted.Observed "Terrace Cultivation" along the mountain hill sides,something read in geography books but visually seen for the first time in my life.Reached Barabise town at approx 0925 hrs and crossed a road bridge after which the direction of the river flow towards my seating position reversed.Finally reached "Last Resort" at approx 1000hrs, eager yet psychologically afraid of the "bungy Jump". After alighting the bus the big group of adrenaline junkies , including myself made our way towards the resort lodge.We all assembled at the cafe lounge cum bar of the "Last Resort" a excellent out-of the-World 5-Star Adventure resort.The Resort Instructor introduced us to the manner and method of 'Bungy Jumping" and "Swing-Jumping" which were the two adventure sports to be conducted today.Came across a young group of five Indian tourists with whom i picked up a conversation and admired their adventure of driving and motorcycling across India and Nepal as a holiday trip.Strangely, their group leader Mr Anikhet.Sharma who took turns at driving as well as motorcycling was mortally afraid of "Bungy Jumping", trying to release his fear demons by attempting a bungy jump.We were all "Weighed In" and allotted different groups as follows.A) Group 1:-Nos 125 to 74.B) Group 2:-Nos 73 to 63 and C) Group 3:- Nos 62 to 40. Iwas given Nos 76 and hence in the first group of Bungy jumpers.After depositing my valuables in a locker i made my way to the "Jump Bridge", a beautiful and scary sight above the narrow river gauge flowing below.No cameras were allowed at the Bungy jumping site and hence our "Jumps" and "Last Words" before "Bungy Jumping" were videotaped by a professional crew for memories of a life-time.

"Tourist Camps" at "Last Resort".

Bizarrely, exactly at 1200 hrs i took my jump,initially mortally afraid to step off the jumping ramp,coaxed forward by the instructor.My last words before jumping at the take off seat were , quote,"YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE SO LIVE YOUR LIFE TO THE ULTIMATE"!Just before jumping i said "HERE I COME"! Honestly, the drop was instantaneous and i didn't feel any pain when the bungy chord jerked against my body, just the wonderful feeling of swinging upside down and almost touching the rapid white water stream gushing below.While hanging upside down i sang "Free like a bird" with a few of my own compositions and the bungy staff awaiting to release me from the "Strait Jacket below were astounded at my bungy singing talent saying i was the only Bungy jumper to sing while hanging upside down!They inquired about actors Salman.Khan and Amitabh.Bachchan being Hindi movie fans, as for me "Bungy Jumping" was akin to attaining adrenaline Nirvana.Touche! Top.

"BUNGY- JUMPING" at the "Last Resort". My bravest act of banishing "FEAR"! ?

The walk from the base of the gorge to the "Last Resort Camp" was another trekking adventure by itself.The rugged misty mountains with chirping birds and the gushing noise of pure unadulterated water was out of the world experience for a city dweller although i myself am a regular out-doors man.Finally reached the Last resort lounge at approx 1230 hrs andrelaxed in the midst of nature.A few adventure tourists had withdrawn at the last moment, a case of Vertigo and fellow Indian tourist Mr Anikhit.Sharma belonged to that category.According to me "Bungy Jumping" is safer than diving from the first or second floor of a swimming pool board.As for me, happy to have got rid of one of my phobia's and at age 51 i think i was the oldest bungy jumper in the entire group of approx 40 jumpers, manny of whom quit.Isn't numerical age just a number? Yes Hugh.Hefner,Dev.Anand and Mick.Jagger would confirm! Ultimately its all a mind game.We were all provided an excellent buffet lunch in batches and shown our video clips.We all purchased our individual video's,costing NRs 1700(Indian Tourists), memories for another day and another age.After lunch we were free to tour the entire resort, a mind-boggling nature reserve.Most of the tourists were Caucasians, barring a few Indians and Nepalis and there were a few bold ladies who took the jumps or swings.The "SWING" is similar to the bungy jump but less frightful as the person has the advantage of holding onto a chord while being swung on the high wire rope across the river gorge.While relaxing on the hammock in the resort garden i came across a Swiss couple practicing the martial art of Akindo and on inquiring the young lady told me that she was a "Black Belt" and hence coaching her boyfriend!I personally suggest that tourists with a love for adventure or nature should make it mandatory to visit the "Last Resort" when touring Kathmandu.We finally departed from the "Last Resort" at approx 1630 hrs the reverse journey home being in pitch darkness through the mountainside.Sunset in winter in Kathmandu is at approx 1730 hrs, the weather also getting extremely chill.We experienced a heavy drizzle on our return journey, lucky that it didn't rain while we were either "bungy Jumping" or "Swinging".The journey back home to the hotel took approx three and a half hours with a tea shop rest in-between, an excellent and memorable day in my life.Alas, on reaching the hotel i realized that i had either been robbed or had misplaced my "Pentax binoculars" which i had carried along with me to the "Last Resort".The binocular was an old set, sentimental value since i had purchased it during my sailing years at sea in Canada in 1986, real vintage binoculars although not expensive.My room-mate Mr Ashok.Agarwal was to depart the next day and hence he was busy packing his luggage, a frequent business traveler to Kathmandu.
Thursday(17-11-2011):-My sleep patterns have gradually improved a little since the beginning of my mammoth solo-backpackers tour from Delhi ,beginning on 3/11/2011.After awakening at 1500 hrs , watched television as usual and later went to the adjacent "Tea-shop Daba" for a "Omelete/Bread/Tea " breakfast.Mr Ashok.Agarwal left the lodge at approx 0800 hrs and hence i had to either shift to a new single room or hope that another person would join me as room- mate in "Room Nos 103"At approx 0900 hrs made my way to the "Palace Museum" situated just 5 minutes walking distance from "Red Planet tourist lodge".The museum opened at 1100 hrs and hence being early i decided to stroll around Thamels by-lanes and streets.Thamel being a tourist locality is comparatively expensive and while internet cafe charges average approx NRs 25/hour in other localities they cst an astronomical Rs60/hour in Thamel, same applies for internet phone calls.Rang up home and spoke to my housekeeper Sabina later returning to my hotel.At 1100 hrs visited the "Narayanhiti Palace Museum" where the entrance charges were Rs 250 , having a large tourist as well as local crowd.There was a huge queue for visiting the museum, mostly organized school tours and this was the first time that i saw a massive queue at a museum in Kathmandu.The original palace had been demolished after the infamous 1/6/2001 Nepal Royal family massacre and this palace museum was a depiction of the original Royal Palace.Toured the entire palace complex including the site where the royal massacre took place, a shrouded mystery to date.Royalty sells, even if extinct, and the long queue for sightseeing of the "Narayanhiti Palace Museum" confirmed the same.After the palace tour i walked along "Darbar Marg" the main boulevard road opposite the palace entrance and made my way into "Hotel Annapurna".Entered "Casino Anna" and was surprised at the large amount of slot machines although the parlour was empty at approx 1215 hrs.Made my way to the "Black Jack" tables where i learnt an economic fact of life advertised by this famous Kathmandu hotel,quote "BLACKJACK PAYS 2:1 WHILE LIFE INSURANCE PAYS 3:1? Wonder how the Insurance companies all over the World react to this honest fact of economic facts! After a brief tour of the gaming tables went back to my hotel.Next decided to visit "Freak Street" for blogging as well as freak food and indulged in the same.Lunch was buffalo momo and chicken soup at "Penny lane restaurant", a flashback to the Hippy era that once made "Freak Street" a by-word in hashish,ganja and amphetamines, now a very tame locality compared to plush and backpacker tourist locality Thamel.After lunch began blogging at the "Cyber Station" opposite "Penny lane" in freak street, the cheapest cyber cafe in kathmandu costing just Rs 15/hour.Although the computer keyboards in this cybercafe are faded, the computer screens outdated and slow, yet at Rs 15/hour it is definitely worth the trouble and a big hit with tourists and locals, always crowded.Later in the afternoon went back to my hotel, very well located in the heart of Kathmandu.Hotel manager Puspa had booked a packaged guided tour for "Nagarkot Sunrise" on Friday(18-11-2011)costing NRs 900 and i paid him the same,relaxing in my hotel and later having a chilled water bath.The exchange rate of British Pound to Nepali Rupee was 1 Pound= NRs 126 approx, varying a few cents according to daily currency rates.Most tourists come to Nepal for the trekking experience but as for me, daily walks around Kathmandu compensated for the trekking expeditions.Solo sightseeing walks across the length and breadth of this unique and small city kept my mind as well as body active, learning new trends, fashions and living conditions of various races of people.In the evening at approx 1830 hrs went to the office of "The Last Resort" situated in Thamel to collect my "Video Film", the first time in my life that i produced a video film on myself.Mr Anil.Mahajan the video producer demonstrated my video and i was stunned at the clarity and professionalism of a normal video shoot.After collecting the video stepped into my favorite dining restaurant in Thamel, "Tibet Nepali Kitchen" and had a chicken soup, afraid of upsetting my stomach since i had to arise early for the "Nagarkot Sunrise Tour".
Friday(18-11-2011):- Was woken up at 0330 hrs by hotel manager Puspa, dressed quickly and made my way to the hotel lobby.A American couple Dawson and Sherry besides a lone Italian tourist Andrew from the same hotel were also on the same "Nagarkot Sunrise Tour"..As a "Solo Backpacker tourists" i have never ever suffered from boredom or loneliness during my tours, always meeting fellow tourists and picking up a conversation or busy in writing and photography, We awaited our tourist van outside the "Himalayan Bank" on the main road later joined by a Bangladeshi couple.On introduction realized that the gentleman Shamsuddin.Ahmed was an International cricketer who represented Bangladesh in the 1999 World cup and played against Saurav.Ganguly's Indian team of that era.He was tall, approx 6 feet 2 inches and was a fast bowler having still maintained his physique and at present an International cricket Umpire in Bangladesh.The "Tata Winger" tourist van finally arrived at approx 0420 hrs with a few young Indian tourists from Bihar,two boys and two girls. We departed for Nagarkot in the cold early morning at approx 0430 hrs finally reaching our destination on this hill-station at approx 0545 hrs, a journey through narrow winding roads up the mountain.There was a beautiful 5-star resort at the peak of this mountain called the "Club Himalaya Nagarkot Resort".The surrounding mountains were covered in fog and mist and visibility reduced to approx a few hundred meters, hence viewing the SUNRRISE" was beyond comprehension in this weather.We entered the hotel, a beautiful classic resort where tourist booking was done months in advance through the internet."Sunrise" was noted down as 0620 on the hotel lobby board and a few Japaneses tourists had already set up their professional camera's to photograph the "Sunrise".Clicked some photos in the hotel lobby and later went outside to the viewing garden, sad that we would not be able to view the sunrise due to the erratic weather conditions.Kathmandu had been having freak rain showers in the past few days, hence the formation of heavy fog and mist in the early mornings.

"CLUB HIMALAYA" resort at Nagarkot.

As 0620 hrs approached and went by we all realized that watching "Nagarkot Sunrise" was not in our destiny and we made our way to the local souvenir shop. A statue of Sir Chinmoy was erected near the souvenir shop, a message for World peace and harmony.We later departed from Nagarkot , the American couple Dawson and Sherry staying back at nagarkot while the rest of us headed to Bhaktapur.Normally tourists come to Nagarkot and stay for a few days in order to view both the sunrise as well as sunse from this beautiful Himalayan hill-station.We reached Bhaktapur at approx 0900 hrs and were allotted a time of approx 40 minutes to visit the "Bhaktapur Darbar Square", very normal on any "Packaged tour".he ticket to the "Bhaktapur Darbar Square" was NRs 100 and all the "Darbar Squares" in Nepal are similar in design,Bhaktapur being famous for its pottery Industry.After a brief tour of the Bhaktapur Darbar complex and a little photography made my way to the tourist Van.We finally departed from Bhaktapur at approx 0910 hrs, a bit late as the Bangladeshi couple Ex-Cricketer Shamshaddin.Ahmed and his doctor wife were a bit late on arriving.Italian Andrew and myself were finally dropped off near our hotel .On arrival at my hotel the manager informed me to shift to a new double-room and hence i shifted to Room Nos 105 situated on the same floor.It was a large spacious room with a tub bathroom but badly maintained.It was definitely much better than Room Nos 101 that i shared with Mr Ashok.Agarwal. Later,after a late breakfast of omlette /Bread had a chilled shower and as usual read the local "Kathmandu Post".The pop Danish group "Michael Learns to Rock" were scheduled for a concert the next day on Saturday(19-11-2011) at the Tudikhel Stadium near Raniphokhari.I had attended the "Michael Learns to Rock" concert at the "Bandra Kurla Complex" in September 2005 in Mumbai and hence decided to attend the "Kathmandu College of Management Inter college music competition" held at Bikuti Mandap on Friday (18-11-2011).Inquired with the assistant hotel manager Mr Tilak.Adhikari about the directions to Bikuti Mandap and decided to attend this music competition.It was a long and tedious walk, worse, i had to continuously ask for directions, the locals being very helpful.In pursuit of Bikuti Mandap i discovered the "Nepal Tourism Office" located in Bikuti Mandap complex.2011 has been designated as "Nepal Tourism Year" and was surprised at the free travel brochures available at the office.Collected brochures on Pokhara and archaeological sites of Nepal.At the tourism office a employee guided me towards the music venue, strangely the staff being totaly unaware of a rock concert being conducted in its huge complex.I finally made my way towards the entry gate of the "8th Kathmandu college music contest" after much inquiry within its vicinity, a comic scenario, an indication of the awareness of Western rock and pop music amongst the average Kathmandu citizen.

"8th Kathmandu college music contest" in progress

Entrance to the rock competition was NRs 50 and at approx 1130 hrs i was inside the competition grounds filled with a few collegians, myself being "Daddy Cool", the oldest rock fan in a crowd of young collegians.The music contest was similar to Mumbai's own "Independence rock concerts", each college music group requiring to perform for approx half an hour and the winner being decided by voters from the audience and not professional music judges.I was surprised at the life-style and style of some of the collegians, absolutely world-class fashion, with Rastafarian or Sadhu dreadlocks not uncommon, also spotting a Mohican hairstyle.The girls had the prettiest high-heels and honestly, i was amazed at seeing the drastic difference in life-style and fashion between Nepals educated elite and the common masses.The music was entirely "HEAVY METAL" with "Head Banging" being the order of the day and evening.The Concert was in progress when i entered and continued late in the evening.I thoroughly enjoyed myself although "Heavy Metal" is not my kind of music being a pop and rock fan.Tasted the local "Pani-Puri" speciality and it differed in taste from the Mumbai variety as the water contained no sweetener, just tamarind juice.I cast my vote mid-way as i liked the "Head -Banging" of the crooner surprised by the professionalism and head-banging of some of the college groups that followed later in the evening.The college competition finished by approx 1700 hrs and later two professional groups gave exhibition concerts in "Heavy Metal Music".Wasn't Kathmandu the innovator of 1970's hippism? I was saddened and surprised that during my entire six hours of attendance i didn't hear a single college group play any pop or rock cover song,not even Michael.Jackson, all of them stressing on "Heavy Metal" genre."Metallica" and "Ozzy Osbourne" might be smiling at their following among the youth.Strangely, even "Rap and Hip-Hop" a recent music discovery was absent in the music performances of the various college groups from Nepal.I finally departed at 1800 hrs a bit vary of finding my way back to the hotel.Kathmandu's street traffic is chaotic and streets crowded besides, most street lamps are in-operative and hence a person has to walk in semi-darkness.Footbridges have to be utilized as crossing the roads in peak traffic would invite an accident and thanks to my professional solo tours experience finally managed to make my way to my hotel.Dinner was at "Tibet Nepali Kitchen" and akin to "Heavy Metal Music" i decided to try the local brew called "Tongba(Hot Beer)".Met a Russian tourist Michael and his Nepali wife at the restaurant and they advised me on the method of enjoying the local drink "Tongba(NRs 100)". Tongba consists of a cup of barley which has to be continuously topped up with hot thermos water and drunk through a straw.Honestly i didn't like the drink and found it akin to drinking bitter medicine although it was a bit intoxicating.This drink is favored by the local population as a anti-dote to the severe winter cold.After dinner i had a cup of curd and later made my way to the hotel.Friday was a hectic day of experiences and travel besides discovering "Tongba".
Saturday(19-11-2011):-Woke up as usual and had "Omellete/Bread Breakfast" at the adjoining "Tea House Daba".I had purchased a loaf from the bakery "Master Baker", excellent quality bread that lasted me three days in absolutely fresh condition, the cold weather also being one of the reasons for preservation.After breakfast met manager Puspa and settled my hotel bills also paying him NRs 600, the fare to Pokhra.I decided to just spend the entire last day in Kathmandu loafing around its crowded streets and alleyways.At 0830 hrs While walking along Jyatha street in Thamel on my way to freak street a motorcyclist suddenly appeared ahead riding bizarrely in the narrow street.He had a pillion rider and had totaly lost control of his bike , going zig-zag and luckily i was a few meters away from the bike as also there were no pedestrians in a normally crowded locality as it was early morning.I finally made my way to Freak street and blogged away, the only place in Kathmandu where they play classic rock and pop recorded music besides cheapest internet rates at only NRs15/hour.At "Cyber Station" cybercafe in Freak Street its a different world of music, tourists and the ultimate test of internet patience and skills, since the computers are aged and do have a tendency to malfunction if not utilized properly.At "Cyber Station" , each computer cubicle has a tourist typing the keyboard in a different language besides English indicating the Cosmopolitan character of this unique and ancient cybercafe in Freak Street.Learnt "Computer Innovation" at "Cyber Station" in Kathmandu.Later after leaving the cybercafe and making my way out of Freak street suddenly saw a huge crowd of tourists gathered outside a building in Darbar Square.On inquiry learnt the "Kumari", the living child goddess was in the pagoda building and showing her appearance at the window for tourists and visitors.I entered the building along with the tourists and got a look at the tiny chil girl ,her face like a doll appearing at the window.Photographing the "Kumari" was banned and i was lucky to get a view of Nepals living goddess.I saw a tourist focusing the camera at the balcony of the "Kumari" and thought photography was allowed.On focusing my camera, the priest in-charge of the custody of "Kumari" told us to stop and we later went out of the compound.Later i realized that "Kumari" poster-card photos were on sale outside the pagoda building,hence realized the reasons for the banning of photography,simply a commercial reason and not religious.Had lunch at "Momo Star Restaurant" at approx 1300 hrs.Lunch was a special dish called "Nasi Goseng", excellent food consisting of a mixture of fried egg, fried rice,fried chicken, prawns wafers and salad At a cost of NRs185 it was worth the money. After lunch had sweet curd at "Adhunik Diary products" situated just opposite "Tibetan Nepali Reastaurant" in Thamel.Loafed around the posher tourist locality of Thamel known as J.P Road which has poash hotels and restaurants.Inquired at "Motor Bike ^ Mountain bike Hire" shop the cost of hiring bikes and cycles.The cost for a 150cc Bajaj Pulsar was NRs 600/Day and for a Royal Enfield NRs 2000/Day.The cost for a Mountain Bike was Rs 500/Day and no deposits but just "Identification Authentication" was the necessity.Returned to my hotel and later in the afternoon had a "Bald Shave", my latest style statement after turning bald.Later in the evening strolled along "Darbar Path" the prime are and hippest locality for Nepals elite youth.Saw a lot of motorcycles parked as Saturday is a public holiday in Nepal and the youth were busy in restaurants.Nepal might be the only country in the World besides Israel that observes Saturday as a public holiday.Later purchased a "Nepal Ice" local beer in Thamel deciding to dine the last night in my hotel room watching telivision.Took a photograph of myself against the backdrop of "Red Planet Tourist lodge".The word "Backpacker" must have originated in Kathmandu for every tourist in Thamel carries a authentic back-pack.Later in the evening purchased chicken curry and two Roti's from "Lumbini Tandoori Bhojnalya", a local daba in Thamel and came to my hotel room.The night was spent watching Norwich V/S Arsenal English cup soccer and sipping "Nepal Ice" beer along with chicken.

Crowded Kathmandu city.

Sunday(20-11-2011):-Partial insomniac as usual, hence awake since 0200 hrs and watching television.Later had a shower dressed and woke up hotel manager Puspa at 0600 hrs regarding the departure bus to Pokhra.Puspa first settled m hotel bills and gave me my locker deposits of 250 Pounds and IRs 600, also issuing me the bus ticket on a bus named "Swiss Bus".Puspa later showed me the directions to the bus stand , a short walk from "Red Planet tourist lodge" past the American Embassy on Kantipath road.I was early at 0630 hrs and the bus agent checked my ticket and issued me a seat at the extreme end of the bus.Having done my "Internet Tour Studies" i took the extreme right window seat of the bus, facing the driving direction.The bus finally was filled to capacity, majority being tourists.The "PRITHVI  HIGHWAY" that connected Kathmandu and Pokhara is considered one of the 7 most dangerous highways in the World.It  is a total of 174 Kms distance from Kathmandu to Pokhara and the "Prithvi Highway" has been a graveyard of numerous vehicle mishaps over the decades.The bus finally departed from Kantipath Road at approx 0720 hrs and as usual made new travel acquaintances en-route,never ever feeling lonely although traveling solo.The gentleman seated next to me was a local Nepali, a mechanical engineering student going back home to Pokhara from his college in Kathmandu.Shree Ram Poudel was one of the typical Nepali students that i came across at the "Kathmandu College Music", modern , ambitious and tuned to western music Festival,an upper class literate Nepali.We discussed politics, students and the music scene, besides he also advised me on Pokhra as a tourist resort.At approx 0930 our bus stopped at Bairani Master town in Dhading district, approx 54 kms away from Kathmandu for breakfast and i had noodles with tea.Saw the snow capped mountains from land for the first time, the weather being sunny and absolutely clear.Our route was alongside a river flowing in a gorge below with mountainous green countryside with step-terrace cultivation on view.It was the harvesting season and hence all the fields had haystacks of rice in them, a beautiful scene against the backdrop of the rugged evergreen mountains.We reached the temple town of Manakamana at approx 1115 hrs viewing the cable-cars used for transporting pilgrims to this mountain temple, the first cable-car system in Nepal.Lunch was at "Highway Restaurant" in Gunadi and after a short lunch break we departed at approx 1315hrs for Pokhra.At approx 1400 hrs approaching Pokhra we got the first glimpse of the Annapurna mountain range that made this city World famous, the ultimate destination for adventure sports and mountain trekking expeditions.We finally reached Pokhra tourist bus depot at approx 1445 hrs and on alighting the bus was besieged by numerous taxi drivers and hotel salesmen.Finally struck a bargain with Mr Krishna.Ghimira for a room at New Annapurna Guest house at NRs 500/Day ,situated in Lake-side locality of Pokhara.We both walked all the way from the bus-stop to the hotel and i was allotted room Nos 8 on the first floor of a beautiful "Farm House Lodge".Seems every bungalow owner residing close to the prime tourist locality of "Lake-Side" have decided to convert their homes into part hotels and hence an excess of tourist hotels in Pokhara."New Annapurna Guest house" was definitely a very well maintained hotel, my room being brand new akin to a new hotel unlike "Red Planet Guest House" which although in prime Kathmandu locality was shabbily maintained.Seems Krishna.Ghimira was a relative of the owner and this shows the competition amongst hotel owners for acquiring tourist customers in Pokhra.The manager, the owners daughter Laxmi.Lamichhane told me about the various activities provided by the hotel, a totally family managed enterprise.

Repairing boats on the shore of Pehwa lake.

After a quick shower i strolled into Pehwa lake garden and was amazed at viewing the Annapurna mountains akin to the Alps in Switzerland.Now i realize the reason for naming the bus to Pokhra as "Swiss Bus",Pokhra being a paradise of beauty akin to Switzerland in Europe.Strolling along the banks of the lake came across a couple of boatmen repairing the wooden paddle boats, making the boats water-proof at sealing joints by means of cotton thread and a hardening putty paste akin to "M-Seal".As a "Marine-Engineer" i was fascinated at the simpleness and yet effectiveness of wooden boat building by these theoretically unqualified ship repairing artisans.As a marine engineer of approx 23 years sea-service i felt humbled at the ingenuity and practical applicability of these rustic wooden ship builders of Pokhra.After sunset i went back towards my hotel and had dinner at a local Nepali Dhabba "Sujan Mo Mo Restaurant", an ordinary chicken curry rice costing NRs 180.After dinner went back to my hotel and had a semi-insomniac nights sleep while watching television.

Boat transport to World famous "FISH TAIL LODGE" in Pokhara.

Monday(21-11-2011):- Woke up at 0300 hrs and watched VH1 music channel, happy that at least my stomach diarrhea was cured.There was a dense early morning fog with visibility reduced to a few hundreds of meters."New Annapurna Guest House" has a beautiful garden and the entire hotel common lobby was decorated with exotic flowering pots, absolutely aesthetic and soothing.At 0630 hrs the fog was so dense that the Annapurna Mountains couldn't be visible and later had breakfast of Omlette/bread and tea at "Sujan Mo Mo Restaurant".It has always been my habit since i first began visiting ports in the 1980's through ships to always visit the local cafe's or restaurants of the country rather than a "McDonalds" or a "Tourist resort".This habit developed partly due to monetary deficiency and partly to get a true taste of the common living of that particular country.The weather suddenly cleared after 0730 hrs with bright sunshine emerging from the dense fog and hence decided to visit "Devi's Falls" and later trek to the "Peace Pagoda".Boarded a local micro-van public bus and got down at Devis falls situated just opposite the Mahendra Gupteshwar caves on the road leading to Butwal. There were a lot of handicraft sellers near the entrance to Devi's cave and purchased a hat(NRs 150), a souvenir of my world-wide hat collections.The entry ticket to Devis falls was NRs 20 and i was one of the earliest tourists to this locale at approx 0900 hrs.Toured the entire complex, a bit sad that plastic litter had defaced this beautiful and scenic water falls, spotting some exotic birds and a huge spider with its web.The Devi falls is the open air visible point where the Pardi Khola stream vanishes underground with a gushing sound.It is at its wildest best during peak monsoon season and also dangerous during that season.Departed from Devis falls at 1000 hrs and walked the distance to the base of the mountain of "Peace Pagoda".The distance by road from the base was 2.5 Kms and for trekkers there was the steps route and i decided to climb the same, a authentic solo hike to the mountain top.I bean my ascent at approx 110 hrs taking intermittent rest at different stages.Halfway to the summit at approx 1045 hrs spotted the Himalayan Griffon vulture soaring majestically in the skies above the mountain.Finally reached a tea house near the summit and took some rest, also purchasing a bottle of mineral water.The view of Pehwa lake and the Annapurna hotel from this tea-house was mind-boggling to a city dweller accustomed to viewing multi-storey skyscraper building in Mumbai.After a short rest at this tea-house restaurant finally made my ascent towards the final stages and reached "Peace Pagoda" at approx 1200 hrs, a hike which took me approx 2 hrs with intermittent rest stops.The view from Peace Pagoda was amazing and i spent approx 3 hours just gazing at the mountain chain and its surrounding beauty.Made a self-produced video of the same, a help for future hikers and tourists.Met a local Nepali Mr Rajkumar.Gurung who had come with a group of students from a medical college and he explained me a bit about the topography of Pokhra.The Gurung community forms a major portion of Pokhra's ethnic population as Nepal has a lot of ethnic communities although Hinduism and Buddhism are the main religions.The only Christian institution that i observed during my tour was Mother Teresa's "Old Age Home" situated in the Pashupathinath temple complex.I finally departed from the "Peace Pagoda" complex at 1500 hrs taking a different route to the main public bs-stop rather than trekking back to base from my ascent route.It was just a half an hour descent to the bus-stop and there i met a local Nepali family,a few of the youngsters inquiring about my origins with a person passing snide homosexual comments.Homosexuality is very accepted in Nepali society and i presume that either one of the men presumed i was homosexual since i was travelling alone or either he was a homosexual trying to seduce me.He asked me to remove their group family photograph and then posed for a photograph with me patting my bottom which i repulsed and he must have got the answer.I have nothing against homosexuality nor homosexuals,pop singer Elton.John being one of my favourite hero's as they have their own lives to lead ,but, i do make it obvious that i am heterosexual whenever Gays eye me or try to seduce me.The bus finally arrived at approx 1625 hrs and we all boarded it, the ticket cost being NRs 25.I had to change another bus(NRs10) to finally reach Lake-side.On arrival at the hotel manager Laxmi told me that she had booked a "Tandem-Paragliding" flight for me the next day, costing 65 Pounds(1 Pound= 125 NRs approx) and i paid her the same.She allowed me to use her laptop and as usual i began blogging my tour memoirs also sad that i had lost lakhs of rupees in the crash of the Indian stock market.
Dinner was at a local Nepali Dabba called "Family Kitchen restaurant" and had a "Nepali mutton thali". Tasted the local Nepali hooch called "Roxy" costing NRs30 with a taste akin to diluted toddy, very mild and less intoxicating akin to drinking beer, the poor mans drink in Nepal.After dinner purchased a snicker chocolate bar(NRs 60) and went back to my hotel, end of an interesting Self-exploration of Pokhra.

"TANDEM PARAGLIDING CERTIFICATE" :-  "BEEN THERE ,SEEN THAT, FLOWN LIKE A BIRD"

Tuesday(22-11-2011):-An excellent sun-rise , the best since my arrival in Nepal on 12-11-2011.The Annapurna mountains were visible from my hotel room and i went to the terrace to view the same.Later dressed up and went to "Fish Tail Lodge" ground inside pehwa lake complex.The climate and beauty of the surroundings was picture post-card, to be seen personaly rather than described in text.It was approx 0630 hrs the sun having just risen and the majestic Annapurna mountains glistening in the dawn sunlight with not a shred of fog or mist on the ground.Observed the rustic wooden boat builders water-proofing a boat on the banks of the Pehwa lake absolutely baffled by their workmanship since any error could mean a sinking of tourists, although not as fatal as a sea-sinking.Observed mist above the water and wonder if the rock group "Deep Purple" got the wordings of their hit song "Smoke on the Water" after visiting Phewa lake, such was the morning beauty of this lake.Had a breakfast at the lake-side Dabba next to Fish-Tail wharf, a omelette bun and tea(NRs 90).Later made my way back to the hotel, a short walking distance and did a detour of the hotel complex."New Annapurna guest house" is the ultimate description of a posh farm-house, a common asset amongst Delhi billionaires.The hotel has two small fields in which crops are grown and also two Jersey cows and hence producing its own dairy requirements.The garden in the center of the guest-house is on par with any beautiful publicly maintained garden, besides the owners had a lovely dog and cat, a totally family type of resort.Most of the hotel guests are tourists and i did take a few photos of the guest-house resort.
Later at approx 1100 hrs the hotel owner Mr Chandra took me to the main road to board the car that would take me to Sarangkot for "Tandem Paragliding".The car arrived a approx 1115 hrs and collected me later picking up two other lady tourists.We were finally taken to the office of "Annapurna Paragliding Pvt Ltd" where we had to fill the necessary documents for "Tandem Paragliding".Each one of us would be allotted a pilot and finally all the pilots arrived with heavy haversacks, the same loaded onto the jeep truck.I was surprised to know that the heavy back-packs contained the "Paragliding kit", a bit nervous that such a dangerous sport was treated so casually by the professionals.The pilots were all Caucasians from Bulgaria.The ride by jeep to Sarangkot peak in hindsight seemed more treacherous and dangerous than the actual "Tandem Gliding", absolutely pitted with craters and narrow u-turns where an error would mean instant death through a sheer drop down the mountain side. The jeep drivers had to be as skillful as the Paragliding pilots, hence never underestimate a persons profession or employment status.Every job has its own dignity and importance in society.We finally reached the "Paragliding Cliff" point at approx 1150 hrs.We were told to pick our pilots and my pilot was Mr Yasin.Savar , a young tall gentleman from Bulgaria.He had 14 years of paragliding experience and was employed at "Annapurna Paragliding Pvt Ltd" for the past 2 months.He explained me the basics of "Take-off" for para-gliding and asked me if i wanted to video-tape the same.I decided to produce and direct my own "Tandem Paragliding" since my hands were free unlike "Bungy-Jumpimg" where it is a total uninhibited free-fall to planet Earth.I took some photographs and finally at approx 1205 hrs we took off from the cliff of Sarangkot.I was on cloud 9, thrilled of floating high above the mountains and began videotaping the same.

Landing on the shore of Pehwa lake after "TANDEM PARAGLIDING"

Sang the famous Mackenna Gold signature tune "Old Turkey Buzzard" on spotting the beautiful Himalayan Griffin vultures in the sky,gliding alongside us.I was scared of the "Para-gliding Traffic Congestion" in the air-space as there were numerous tandem para-gliders around, akin to vehicles maneuvering in a city road traffic.Yasin explained me a bit of the rudiments of paragliding and the competitions involved in this beautiful and graceful airsport.Learning paragliding is simple, takes just a week and tons of money but becoming an expert is another occupation altogether.Finally while descending he did a few acrobatics and it was akin to riding a "Roller-Coaster twister".WE finally descended on ground besides Phewa lake at approx 1235 hrs, a total time of half an hour in the sky.The other girl from Denmark,Miss Ditte.Marie and her pilot also descended next after us and they appreciated my video-recording commentary.The other girl, a German had taken an hours para-gliding ride while her friend and we had to wait for her to land.Her friend avoided paragliding since she had the misfortune of experiencing the death of one of her friends due to paragliding accident , hence the fear psychosis.The Nepal solo tour got me into contact with numerous tourist travelers and backpackers and i was amazed at some of these young lady's touring remote parts of the globe for months, that too alone. Ditte.Marie,a tandem paraglider from Denmark was one such traveler, petite, very young and delicate looking which speaks volumes of their income and leisure time.Finally after arrival of the German para-glider we boarded the jeep and made our way back to "Annapurna Paragliding (P) Ltd" office where each of us were given a certificate for completing the ride.We were later dropped at our respective hotels and after a little rest i made my way towards Rashtra Bank chowk to visit the local cyber cafe. Lunch was at "Pratibha Restaurant" situated near the chowk and had a chicken fried rice ang with local hootch "Roxy", least surprised if the drink was named after the movie "Moulin Rouge"!After a sumptuous lunch entered "Worldwide Cyber and Communication cafe" and began

Mount Machhapuchchhre(Fish Tail Mountain) as seen from Peace Pagoda

blogging my memoirs,writing a relaxation after hectic and dangerous "Tandem Para-gliding".After blogging for approx 3 hours left the cybercafe and walked to my hotel.Relaxed and later in the evening had a dinner at "Holy momo restaurant", presumably named since a small temple has been erected in a cut-out of a peepul tree situated in front of this restaurant.Dinner consisted of "Thukpa(chicken soup)" which is a local a nepalese soup and elaichi bananas purchased from a local fruit shop, thankful that my diarrhea prone stomach has healed.
Wednesday(23-11-2011):- Woke up at 0500hrs and decided to watch the sunrise from the hotel terrace.Strangely, the mountains were covered with fog and hence hazily visible at 0630 hours, past sunrise time.Later went to "Fish Tail lodge compound" and strolled along Phewa lake watching a few locals fishing and a group of young students practicing some martial arts, probably judo.Suddenly, akin to a curtain opening the skies suddenly cleared and the entire Annapurna mountain range was visible in its splendid glory, shining in the early morning sun-shine rays.Breakfast consisting of omelette/bun and tea was at the same "Tent/teahouse situated inside "Fishtail lodge" hotel complex compound.This is the hotel that opens earliest as it caters to the local working class consisting of bus drivers and hotel staff and a few tourists doing brisk business.Two local dogs, a beautiful spitz and a mix-breed always loiter around this tea-stall campsite for food morsels and the spitz recognized me and immediately sat next to me for a few morsels, eating only omlette and not the bread.Who said dogs are not fussy about food?After breakfast made my way to the hotel and after a luke-warm water bathe dressed for the days solo tourist agenda .Hotel manager Laxmi informed me about the confirmed booking for "Chitwan game reserve", a one day two nights package tour costing IRs 3700.I paid her IRs 2000 and the rest in NRs2800. Today i decided to see the actual Pokhara, the non-tourist section of the city and hence decided to travel by bus to visit the "Mahendra Caves" and "Bat Caves" located in Bataulechaur, extreme northern end of Pokhara city.I made my way to the bus-stop and caught the local micro-bus to Bagar at approx 0815hrs, the ticket costing NRs 25.Managed to get seating accommodation, the bus stopping at Prithvi pool to load more passengers, normal routine in Kathmandu and Pokhra.Enroute passed by Mahendrapool,recognizing the localities through my tourist map.Finally reached Bagar, the last stop at approx 0910 hrs.Boarded the connecting mini-bus from Bagar to Mahendra caves and enroute saw a link to India, the famous education center of Manipal having its "Manipal college of Medical Sciences" in Pokhara.Finally reached "Mahendra caves" at 0945 hours which was the last stop.Walked to the caves entrance and after a entry fee of NRs 20 entered the underground caves.The Mahendra caves are basically a religious site for Hindus with worshippers visiting these sacred sites.Went upto the Ganapati Baba mandir and returned from the entrance, realizing that this was a religious cave.Later walked about half a kilometer to the "Bat Caves", the entry fee being NRs 20.The entrance to the bat caves was similar to Mahendra caves but once inside it was pitch dark and my cell-phone light was a case of something is better than nothing logic.Luckily there was a large group of local tourists along with me carrying huge portable lights and hence i could manage my way through the caves.Spotted thousands of tiny horseshoe bats on the roof of the cave walls and some stalactite formations.The intersting part of the "Bat Caves" is its exit and i was wondering the reasons for a queue to get out of this short tour of the entire caves.Had to wait for almost half an hour to crawl towards the exit and on reaching the exit i realized that "Bungy Jumping" and "Paragliding" were less stressful than the exercise of getting out of a rock-hole just large enough to let in a midget or a thin tall person.With great difficulty i managed to crawl out of this hole wearing the best of my formal clthes, most happy at seeing day-light and worth the adrenaline adventure at such a low cost.I would advise "Adrenaline Junkies" to not miss the tour of the "Horseshoe Bat Caves" in Pokhra,its as exciting as "Bungy Jumping" or any other dangerous sport, for if you get stuck in the exit then its left upto imagination of being set free.Agreed, age was my handicap but even youngsters, unless in good physical condition would find the bat caves claustrophobic and tiny , akin to army elimination skill training.
Left the "Bat Caves" mountain complex at approx 1110 hrs and walked towards the open countryside next to the hills.Harvesting of paddy crop was in progress in the fields and after a short walk i returned to the bus-stand.During "Solo-Tours" i normally imitate the "Bear", hibernating on food, eating the least, saving "Food Money" as well as maintaining my normal weight conditions.I compensate the same at home in Mumbai,gorging home-cooked food and putting on weight due to less out-doors work since the change in my profession from marine engineering employment to personal investments business and blogging.Lunch was a noodle chowmein at a local Tea-house near Mahendra caves and later boarded the bus for Bagar.At Bagar i asked for directions to the "Gurkha Military Museum", a short walking distance from the bus-stand, past the K.L.Singh bridge above the "Setu Gorge".Entry ticket to the "Gurkha Museum" was NRs 80 and Nrs10 for camera, the first and only war museum that i visited to date.Strangely,Mumbai doesn't have any War Museum and since the "Gorkha's" are also connected to the Indian Army decided to visit the same.The Gorkha at the museum entrance Mr Eddie.Khan, a retiree guided me through a part of this recently inaugurated museum, excellently maintained and displayed.This museum was inaugurated in 2009 with British patronage besides other private donours, the only Gorkha museum in Nepal.

"Gorkha Memorial Museum" :- Guide mistook me for a "Military Man" !

When we reached the "Indian Army" section Mr Eddie.Khan told me that he had served as bodyguard to Field Marshall Sam.Maneckshaw's between 19971 to 1973.He later requested a donation for the museum mistaking me to be a "Military man" but i told him that the military was a curiosity to me, especially the world famous "Gorkha's", hence the visit.I later thanked him and left this military museum making my way to the "Seti river Gorge".Entry ticket to the "Seti river Gorge" was NRs 20 and it was an amazing view of pure Himalayan water from the glaciers of Machhapuchhre(Fish tail mountain) flowing through underground caves and passages into the open.A water collection dam like bridge was constructed for tourists to observe the flow of water from the caves into the open air and later flowing to form a perrineal river.Below this dam-bridge was a deep gorge, akin to the "Last Resort" gorge near Kathmandu, deep and scary.tasted the Seti river water, excellent pure mineral water of the Himalayan mountains. Finally departed from the "Seti river Gorge " complex and blogged at a cyber-cafe in Bhimkali,Bagar.Blogged for approx 45 minutes and later made my way to the microbus-stand.Boarded a bus to lakeside and finally reached the World famous "Fish-Tail Lodge " gate at approx 1600 hrs."Fish-Tail Lodge" in Pokhra has been designated as one of 1000 things to see before you die by a prominent New York Travel magazine and many other travel sites.Entered the "Fish-Tail Lodge" complex grounds and boarded the "Towing Raft" that is normally used for carting luggage and commodities to the hotel across the Phewa Lake.It was a gradual tugging pull of a rope that finally got us onto this World famous tourist hotel, a distance of approx 75 meters between the lakes banks and the hotel.On entry noticed a "Tandem Bicycle" and a two-seater kayak kept at the entrance to the hotel estate, meant for adventure tourists of the hotel.The hotel was akin to a paradise island situated in the backdrop of the evergreen hills.The hotel had Kraal type tourist village huts amidst plantations of papaya, date palms and other garden trees, a typical island type resort.Visited the reception and was surprised at the V.V.I.P guest list of this hotel which consisted of Former U.S President Jimmy.Carter, Prince Charles and former Indian President Sanjeeva.Reddy to just name a few of the prominent former visitors to this illustrious hotel.After a brief tour of the hotel estate i returned back by the normal tourist row boat, mode of transport between the hotel and Pokhra mainland, both for V.V.I.P's and commoners.On arrival at Phewa lakes banks observed a group of locals fishing on the lake banks adjacent to "Fish-Tail Lodge" hotel complex grounds.Bizarrely, as i went towards them a fish struck their line and i was fortunate to click a candid photo of authentic local fishing on the banks of the Phewa lake.Yogesh, the local fisherman boy had put manny fishing lines into the lake and was successful in catching a few small fish although he did have a large fish in his fish-net bag.The hooked fish were kept in a netted closed bag dipped in the lake water to prevent them from dying and hence preserve the freshness.The large fish locally called "Sahar Fish" is the costliest fish in Nepal costing NRs 600/Kg and this fish did weigh a kilo, a prize catch for Yogesh.At dusk, as the sun set over the Annapurna's the weather also gradually became chill and since i was wearing just a normal shirt and trousers began to feel the cold.i finally made my way to the tourist lodge, a fruitful day of discoveries and experiences.The main power at the hotel was unavailable and was surprised to feel the hot solar geyser functioning to utmost efficiency at 1830 hrs in the evening.It was a very sunny day and hence i just put on my normal attire and the "Solar water Heater" made me realize that it was indeed a very warm day.Had a nice hot water bathe and later had dinner consisting of "Nepali chicken Thali" and "Roxy" at "Family Kitchen Restaurant".Met a Mumbaikar Mr Harshad.Chinchwalkar, a tour operator with "Sachin Travels" of Mumbai.He had brought a group of tourists to Pokhara, a common routine of the "7 Day Package" tour organised by "Sachin Travels" which have their office in Dadar.After dinner(NRs 285) purchased some bananas and a 5-star chocolate surprised that Pokhra was much expensive than Kathmandu and definitely costlier than Mumbai!Nepal imports most of its consumer items from India hence they are costlier than in Indian city's, including average food products.Only housing is very cheap in Nepal, including tourist lodging, rest is definitely expensive.Had a good nights sleep along with television.
Thursday(24-11-2011):-Woke up early and on switching on the t.v and news on "Aaaj Tak" channel learnt that Mr Cyrus.Mistry of Shapoorji.Pallonji would be the heir to the "Tata Empire".Later went to the terrace to observe the sun-rise over the Annapurna mountain range and at approx 0645 hrs the golden hues of the mountain appeared as the mist gradually faded. Strangely, the hills towards Phewa lake, opposite to the Annapurna range are always covered in early morning mist and are only visible after complete sunlight.Planned a day of cycling and hence dressed and made my way towards the cycle shops but to my amazement they were shut at 0730 hrs in the morning.Walked upto Basundhra Park,the huge ground situated on the banks of Phewa lake and then took a u-turn deciding to go to the cyber-cafe at "Rashtrabank Chowk" which normally opened at 0800 hrs.Breakfast was at a typical Indian type daba named Krishna Mishtan Mandal at Rashtra bank Chowk area and consisted of Puree Bhaji and tea, cheap and excellent at NRs 55.This restaurant was run by Indians, a pure vegetarian sweets and samoosa shop.Some swallows had built a nest inside this restaurant and i managed to photograph this unique harony of nature existing in the midst of busy humanity.Checked into "Worlwide cyber and communications " and spent the morning hours blogging, a hectic cycling day ahead.After blogging went back to my hotel , a walking distance of approx 15 minutes from Rashtra Bank chowk and hired a mountain cycle aptly named "Everest" brand at NRs 200/Hour, the cheapest cycle on hire.It was a robust geared bike, decently maintained and i hoped it wouldn't break down mid-way on some of the World's worst roads.At approx 0930 hrs began my mountain cycling odyssey on the streets of Pokhra heading straight towards the "International Mountaineering Museum" situated near Pokhra Airport.The road was riddled with rocks, huge craters and occasional traffic and finally reached the "International Mountain Museum" after numerous turns and winding roads, asking directions at every interconnecting road.The International mountaineering museum is situated in a splendid environment with a direct view of the entire Annapurna mountains from its complex.Entry fee to the museum was NRs 70 and since i was one of the first tourists at 1000 hrs it was difficult getting change for a NRs 1000 note, hence had to request a few shops nearby to give me smaller denomination notes which i ultimately managed.The "International Mountaineering Museum" educated me on Nepals culture and ethnic composition of its people.I was surprised that a tiny country like Nepal had diverse ethnic communities speaking different languages with different traditions akin to India , although Buddhism and Hinduism are the two major religions of the Country.The ethnicity of Nepal was displayed in the museum as follows A) Tibeto-Burman Ethnic group :-total of 19 different groups of races.B)Indo-Aryan Group:- 12 different group of races.C) Munda:- I group D) Dravidian:- 1 Group.Honestly, until visiting Nepal i was under the impression that India had the most diversity in ethnic communities, but now realise that in comparison to size, Nepal might be the country with the most number of different ethnic groups .

International Mountaineering Museum in Pokhara.

Although only a moderate hiker mountaineering interested me for its sheer adventure and danger, being a sportsman and an adrenaline Junkie.The museum had a complete history of the conquests of all mountains above 8000 meters which were 14 in number, the first being Mount Everest.Strange but true, Mount Machhapuchhre(Fish Tail Mountain) which made Pokhra World famous and a symbol of this city's landscape is only 6993 meters tall although it looks the tallest in the Annapurna mountain range.This proves that akin to distances at sea, even on land, mountains might appear deceptively larger than they actually are with Mt Machhapuchhre(Fish Tail Mountain) not even figuring close to Annapurna 1 ,Mansalu or Dhaulagiri in height yet appearing the tallest when seen from flat land in Pokhara. Read the literature on the elusive Yeti, even a few photographic foot-prints of this mythical beast displayed for viewers.The Natural history section of the museum consisted of flora, fauna of the Himalayas including moths and butterfly's, a familiar topic during nature tours in Mumbai with "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History society)".What amazed me most amongst the museum exhibits was the display of tons of junk collected in a cleaning operation undertaken in 2003, the discarded waste of mountaineers and mountain expeditions who climbed Mount Everest.Watched a video promotional film with 2011 endorsed as the year of tourism in Nepal.Departed from the museum at approx 1200 hrs and cycled past the airport seeing a 16 seater plane landing on the runway, finally reaching "Rashtra Bank Chowk". Lunch was at Hotel Pratibha and Restaurant at Rashtra Chowk which consisted of chicken fried rice and "Roxy" drink.After lunch returned to the hotel at 1300hrs and collected my bus and package tour ticket for Chitwan from hotel owner Mr Chandra.Kanta. After a short rest cycled down lakeside and reached Phewa lake boat terminus at approx 1345 hrs.This was the main boat terminus for Hindu pilgrims to visit the scenic Barahi temple situated in the middle of the lake.At the lake boat terminus there was a map of Pokhra city and realizing that "Old Pokhra Bazaar" was on the adjacent road hence decided to cycle to this original ancient town of Pokhra city.It was a long and painful test of my cycling prowess and stamina to "Old Pokhra City".The entire cycling was uphill and thankfully the gears of this cycle were working normally and the tyres withstood the rough pebbled and crater roads. As per road directions and cycling i finaly reached Shishu Bikas Kendra where for the first time i saw a catholic church in Nepal.I stopped and entered the "St Annes Catholic Church" and happened to meet the parish priest himself,Fr James who was talking to a care-taker at the entrance to the Church compound.We spoke with each other and he told me that there were many Christians in Nepal, especialy Protestants with Kathmandu having a Catholic Cathedral near Dhobhi Ghat, something that amazed me since i never noticed any Christial religious icons barring Mother Threresa's old age home in the Pashupatinath temple complex.After a brief talk i thanked Father James and cycled uphill to the Old City of Pokhara.Finally reached Old Pokhara at approx 1445 hrs and was mesmerized by the quaint 2 storey brick buildings , some over 200 years old with tenants stil living in them.At one of this ancient buildings met a carpenter from Bihar and Mr Bin.Bahadur.Sharma explained me the economics of teak wood carpentry, the differences in teak wood prices between India and Nepal, something that was a new education in my general knowledge field.After a short rest at this ancient brick building i began my return journey to lakeside, the entire route being down-hill.Controlling the cycle speed on the downhil ride was another test of skill and i felt like a professional tour rider, also happy that i did successfully complete a 15 kilometer uphill and downhill cycle ride with an ordinary "Mountain Bike" with the brand name "Everest".Spent the rest of the afternoon and evening cycling the entire lakeside locality, a tourist hub that resembled a European street rather than an Asian country.The cool pleasant weather made cycling a pleasure despite the horrible roads in certain localities of the city, one of the best cycling rides of my cycling expeditions.Observed the strange installation of permanent table-tennis tables near some lakeside piers made of solid stone on which young local Nepali's played table-tennis. Carrom is also a favourite local pass-time with the carrom boards being much bigger than normal boards and the players play the game standing rather than sitting ,as is the normal format in Mumbai.Towards the evening observed the sun-set over the Annapurna's and Phewa lake finally returning the cycle to the owner at approx 1830 hrs.Returned to my hotel, and had a "Jacuzzi type" hot water bathe, the strange heating effects of "Solar power heating".Dinner consisted of a few Oranges, a chocolate and water, the "Bear Style" of hibernation , hoping to shed my stomache fat layers!
Friday(25-11-2011):- Today the fog was more dense than normal and the mountains were visible a bit late at approx 0650 hrs, again disappearing later, finally the day being normal bright and sunny.Took photographs of hotel manager Miss Laxmi.Lamichhane along with her beautiful cat Suru.This cat follows Laxmi like a dog although a total outdoors cat, roaming the entire farmhouse complex including bickering with the pet dog Bittu."New Annapurna Guesthouse" reminded me of my youth holidays in the 1970's in the South Indian ancestral villages of my parents in Mangalore.Later dressed up and walked upto Rashtra Bank Marg, approx 15 minutes from "New Annapurna Guest house" to the cybercafe for blogging. After blogging came out of the cyber café and boarded a micro-bus to devi’s falls. Alighted at Devi’s falls and inquired about directions to the Tibetan settlement of “Tashiling Refugee Settlement”, inhabited by refugee Tibetans from Tibet since 1959. .It was a short walk from Devi’s falls to the Tibetan refugee settlement of “Tashiling Tibetan refugee settlement”, a quaint village completely inhabited by Tibetans.Visited the “Shree Gaden Dhargay Ling Monastery” situated in the “Tashiling Tibetan Settlement” and later strolled inside the settlement complex having single storey cottage type houses. Spotted two beautiful long-haired goats tied in the centre of the settlement near a prayer hall with beautiful horns, not the normal type common goats.A local Tibetan man happened to come out of his home and I inquired about the pair of goats and he told me that these were mountain goats from whose hair Tibetan carpet rugs were manufactured. Inquired the price of excellent expensive Tibetan rugs which ranged from NRs 25000 and upwards, all a by-product of the Himalayan mountain goat wool.This pair of male goats were actually brought from the mountains to Pokhara for slaughtering during the Nepa Woke up at 0500 hrs and decided to watch the sunrise from the hotel terrace.Strangely, the mountains were covered with fog and hence hazily visible at 0630 hours, past sunrise time.Later went to li festival of Dashain and were lucky to have been spared the knife as they were purchased by the local Tibetans and set free to pasture on their land akin to the lucky “Thanksgiving turkey” in U.S.A that is every year pardoned slaughter by the President of America. Having previously visited the “Gurkha Museum” , the photograph of a sacrificeial military ritual of 1966 ceremony stunned me,the slaughtering done by the famous "Gurkha Khukri Sword”. In one photo a goat was shown being decapitated and in the second a buffalo,both animals of different sizes and weights.The Khukri knife was so swift that both the animals were still standing when their heads were dismembered, bizarre and not for the faint-hearted. These two beautiful goats were definitely lucky to retire in beautiful Pokhara pastures and I took a few photographs.The Tibetan gentleman Mr Labasang.Lama explained me a bit about the settlement and its culture, he being a club class soccer player. The “Potala Club”, the local Tibetan club which he represented regularly participated in tournaments in Dehradun and Dharamsala in India , a few Tibetan players also being successful in some small European clubs.As usual he complained about lack of sponsorship for local soccer in the Tibetan settlements, little realizing that in India too the average State level soccer players were poorly sponsored, some having to earn money doing menial part-time jobs to pursue their passion for the sport.After a brief talk with Mr Labasang made my way towards the handicraft shops owned by the Tibetan settlers. Purchased a “cats eye ring(Nrs100)” and a khukri miniature paper knife (NRs 200), my usual in-curable habit of “souvenir collection” from different parts of the globe visited, memories for another was NRs 20 and it was an amazing view of pure Himalayan water from the glaciers of day. Finally made my way out of the settlement into the main road settling heading towards “Gupteshwor Mahadev caves” situated just opposite Devi falls entry gate.Entry cost to the caves was Nrs100 and it is actually a Hindu religious cave with a Ganesha statue at the entrance and a Shivling inside the underground cave passage , venerated by Hindus with photography prohibited. Further past the Shivling statue is a narrow cave that leads to the entrance of the Devi falls exit into the deep gorge underground, the entire underground cave pathway illuminated with lamps.The gush of flowing water from the falls is refreshing and photography is allowed in this vicinity. Returned from Gupteshwor caves at approx 1145 hrs having lunch at “Deepjyoti Momo restaurant” on the main street ordering chicken noodle with a glass of “roxy” for companionship! After lunch boarded a bus and headed to “ New Annapurna guest house”, relaxing after the brief and hectic morning sojourn of tourist discoveries. Decided to walk right upto the other extreme end of lake-side which terminated near the “Para-Gliding Landing ground” on Lake-side of Pokhara. The entire Lake Side Street beginning from "Fish-Tail Lodge" upto "Paragliding landing ground" is a street that is a mini-Europe, filled with tourists, backpackers,exotic hotels, lodges and eatearies. Numerous street side are lined with bicycles and motorcycles for hire, a very common mode of transport by tourists in Pokhara for unlike Kathmandu, the traffic is less congested although the roads are too dangerous for average motorcyclists or cyclists, typical mountain grade rough pebbled roads. Some of the poshest hotels are located near Gaurighat locality of Lakeside, the “Hotel-Trek-O-Tel”, modeled on the World famous “Fish Tail Lodge” rents out at US$’s 63/day/single room, including an astronomical 23% taxes and is definitely a posh hotel.The taxation rates in Nepal are high and all luxuries are taxed, most important being liquor and hence average local beer and spirits is atrociously expensive. Walked slowly across the lakeside stretch of road entering a local book-store, “Nepali Mandala Bookshop” at Barahi chowk, browsing through some books, a very large bookstore for the comparative size of Pokhara city.Came out of the book-shop and was pestered by a local drug dealer who mistook me as a tourist “Junkie” and pestered me to purchase a “Goli(Ball of Hashish)” costing just NRs250, definitely cheaper than booze. Nepal and Bangkok were the pioneers in Drugs consumption in Asia, Kathmandu being the hot-spot with “Freak street” still being home to a few of these freak hippy generation settlers. Kathmandu was famous for high quality Charas, Ganja and hashish,later Goa in India becoming a hot-spot with the invention of artificial psychedelic drugs, the new generation drugs of the late 20th century.The drug dealer finally even agreed to display his “Goli” giving me a whiff of its pungent odour, straight from “Gurkha” region of Nepal, all this being open solicitation proving the fact that ‘Soft-Drugs” is tolerated in Pokhara.As I was about to take his leave he gave me a leaflet advertising free “Freedom Fridays Music” at the “Freedom café” situated at Bangladi on lakeside road. The music was supposed to begin at 1400hrs and end at 2300 hrs, besides entry was free and hence decided to discover a bit of Pokhara tourist nightlife on the last day in Pokhara. .Decided to visit the café and it was a long walk to the extreme end of Lakeside near the Paragliding landing ground, a beautiful open-air riverside café playing typical trance music, the signature tune of drug or booze infused nirvana.The café was artistically decorated with a huge pond in its centre having carp fish and a circular seating arrangement for guests above the pond,with fishes swimming below. There was also a “Pool table”, indications that this café was a typical tourist haunt, the ultimate in Pokhara Nightlife. There were a few tourists at 1430 hrs in the afternoon and hence I entered the café and exited it towards the lake –side facing Phewa lake, an absolute scenic locale.At the Phewa lake-side bank a group of young Rastafarian tourists were sipping beer , listening to the trance music emitting from “freedom café”, absolute music Nirvana. One of the tourists Alex had the longest Rastafarian hair-locks while his friend Thomas had lesser dreadlocks and their lady friend Erica had long Rastafarian dreadlocks, a real stand-out amongst the tourist crowd in Pokhara. Barring photos of some Hindu Sadhus in National Geographic magazines, Alex’s dreadlocks were the longest I personally saw, his hair almost reaching his buttocks, and I requested them for a personal photo shoot. They were from France and obliged me for a photo. Later I myself spent the entire evening seated outside the café listening to trance and writing my notes, also staring at Phewa Lake’s beauty with para-gliders gliding above in the sky. Observed a lot of backpackers walking along the lakeside waterfront, many typical hippies with underwear’s showing through their torn Pashtoon type modified lungi’s, fashion at its bizarriest and unique to the average tourist. Many of these backpacker hippy tourists would next be heading to Bangkok or Goa for the Christmas and New Year festivities when Nepal becomes extremely cold and the warm coastal weather of Goa and Bangkok beckons these unique “flower children” reliving the lives of the original "Hippy's" of yesteryear's of "Vietnam War era". A revival in the "Millineal generation(People born in 2000's)" of "Hippism" is not because of War but due a huge World Economic collapse and lack of proficient jobs for graduated collegians in developed First world Economies. “Freedom Café” has one of the most exotic locations in Pokhara, being the last café of the lakeside road with direct access to the lake waterfront besides being a hip place for non-conformist music lovers.It was a warm day and I had worn an ordinary “T-Shirt”, deciding to head back to the hotel before the cold winter weather sets in after sunset. Observing the heavy rucksack bags carried by the tourist hikers realized that the word “Backpacker Tourist” must have originated from Nepal with even aged backpackers trudging along with a heavy load on their backs. Normally tourists spend an entire day just being marooned on a boat in the midst of Phewa lake, admiring the distant Annapurna mountain range , but, having spent a life-time at sea I decided to spend the last day in Pokhara listening to trance music on the shore of Phewa lake and admiring the mountains from shore.On "Karthik Purnima night" on Thursday(10-11-2011) i had spent over three hours in a boat along with other tourists releasing "Diya's(Wick lamps)" into the Ganges river in Varanasi(India), the longest boat ride in years, hence avoided a "Phewa Lake boat ride". Finally left “Freedom Café” lakeside shore .at approximately 1630 hrs walking along the banks of the lake towards my hotel situated at the other extreme end of the lakeside tourist resort of Pokhara. Most of the Night-life and Night-clubs in Pokhara is situated in the Barahi locality of Lakeside with a few hotels having live music between 2000 hrs to 2300 hrs, entry being free.Finally reached “New Annapurna Guest house” by 1700 hrs and settled my hotel lodging bills for six days stay with the manager Miss Laxmi.Lamichhane, a typical family run business, absolutely homely, akin to residing on a farm resort. Watched the last sunset over the Annapurna mountains from the terrace of “New Annapurna guest house”, the mountains gradually changing colour from Golden white to dark white.Dinner was a complimentary gift from “New annapurna Guest house” management, an excellent “Nepali chicken Thali”.All the average priced tourist hotels in Nepal seem to be managed like a personal family business with the owner doing chores ranging from driver/steward to the management of a their own multifaceted cottage Industry. Competition within the hotel Industry in Kathmandu and Pokhara seems fierce with hotels dime a dozen in a small tourist vicinity and hence the cost cutting in hotel management.In Pokhara cable T.V is very International with C.N.N,B.B.C and Vh1 being on prime T.V along with local Nepali and Indian channels, most prominent among the Indian news channels being “Aaj Tak”.I tried keeping track of my dipping “Share stock Portfolio” but could source no Indian economic channel, hence followed the philosophy, “Don’t worry , always try to be Happy.”! Slept as usual watching television, waking in-between and finding the guest-house water service non-functional, lucky that my diarrheic stomach didn’t defecate since I avoid using toilet paper. Finally woke up at approx 0500 hrs and informed a family member of the hotel owners about the non-availability of tap water in the hotel room. The cause of the ruckus was that the water tank was not topped up at night, hence over-usage of water must have caused the tank to dry, the same rectified by simply switching onn the electric pump of the hotels bore-well tank.
Saturday(26-11-2011):- After a cold shower dressed up and informed hotel employee Krishna to guide me to the Pokhara bus stop.We both left “New Annapurna Guest house” at approx 0645 hrs, walking all the way to the bus- terminus situated at “Rashtra Bank chowk” just past the cybercafé.. There were two buses leaving for Chitwan and I was allotted seat Nos 3 in the second bus.The entire bus was occupied with tourists and after confirming my seat we both had a breakfast consisting of sweet bun-bread and tea, a common breakfast delicacy amongst the tourists.The tourist seated next to me Pei-Ling was a Taiwanese citizen settled in Taipei. As usual picked up a conversation with the young lady Pei.Ling from Taiwan, exchanging tour knowledge.I was surprised at the backpacking treks done with heavy luggage by some of the delicate looking young single lady tourists that I encountered in Nepal,including Pei.Ling.Inquired if she had been to the top of "Taipei 101" one of the World's tallest buildings and learnt that tourists were not allowed to the top although she commonly frequented a restaurant in "Taipei 101". The bus left for Chitwan at approx 0745 hrs in heavy fog conditions, the beautiful Annapurna mountains being invisible, the road visibility being reduced to a few hundred meters. Finally the weather gradually cleared and at approx 0915 hrs we stopped for breakfast at Ranigaun tara at hotel Green Parkway.We had traveled 52 Kms away from Pokhara, the mountains of the Annapurna range invisible amongst the narrow gorge hills with a river flowing through it, a common scene while traveling across different city’s in Nepal.. En-route our bus stopped at a river tea-house to unload some gear for a white water rafting expedition as this junction was a terminus for white water rafting expeditions for tourists.We finally reached the precincts of Chitwan passing through the town of Narayanghati at approx 1200hrs and later Bharatpur. The sudden change in topography was amazing with mountainous hills giving way to flat forests and cultivated land. Finally reached Sauraha bus station at approx 1300 hrs where akin to an airport arrival terminal lounge there were numerous hotel employees with placards for the tourists arriving to their respective pre-booked hotel package tours.A representative of “Hotel Parkside” whom I initially mistook to be a driver introduced himself to me and since I was the only passenger to that hotel it was difficult to hire a vehicle to the hotel.Mr Rajkumar. Rijaal whom I mistook as a driver was a multi-purpose employee of the hotel,a wildlife-guide, manager as well as the job of transporting arrival tourists to “Hotel Parkside”. As a car was unavailable he requested me to ride backseat on a motorcycle taxi, my luggage arriving later. It was a bumpy and dangerous ride through non-tarmacked forest road, finally reaching the hotel at approx 1345 hrs. I was allotted room Nos 103 on the ground floor of a small two storied bungalow type hotel, the hotels interiors decorated with art paintings and a few deer antlers.my hotel room was very spacious having a double-bed and a single bed with attached bath but no provision for telivision. This hotel being a jungle resort hotel avoided installing televisions in guests rooms, the only hotel television being in the main reception lobby.Each hotel room had the painting of a bird on its main door, mine being the “Greater Rocket tailed Drongo”. My luggage arrived a few minutes later and after a brief wash went to the main dining hall cunm reception building of this small hotel resort. Most tourists were of Caucasian descent, myself being the only Asian, a tastefully and simple outdoors dining hall with plants forming a natural decorative environment. Lunch was western style preparation with finger chips, boiled cauliflower vegetables and a vegetable roll with soup being the main course.After lunch we were told to assemble at the reception entrance at 1530hrs for the start of our “Chitwan two nights and one day” tour package. As usual ,having ample time before the guided tour I wandered outside the hotel into the local community village that had a few houses and acres of fields, at present cultivating "sunflower oil”. The Terrai region of Chitwan is very fertile land and three seasonal crops are grown in a year , the main crops being rice, maize and sunflower oil seeds.From the exit entrance of the hotel facing the cultivated field the distant Annapurna mountain range was visible, unimaginably beautiful against the backdrop of the cultivated fields.A small poultry farm was situated near the fields and inquired with the owner about the economics of poultry farming surprised that “Venky’s Hatcheries” of India, a chicken conglomerate had purchased English soccer club “Blackburn Rovers”, a first for an Indian company and that too, a "Chicken Company" of all the giant Indian conglomerates! Seems the “chicken Industry” is akin to a gamboling Industry to a small farmer, the returns on investment being a suspense account with no fixed income returns. This chicken farmer bred broiler chickens, normally slaughtered at 45 days of age and seems as in any business venture, all chicken farmers are not on par with “Venky’s Hatcheries” in becoming millionaires.
Our jungle walk with the hotel tour guide began at approx 1545 hrs, the entire package tour full of tourists.Met a young German couple, the lady being an expert solo paraglider, her hobby in Germany.Honestly, although alone, i never ever felt lonely during my entire solo tour beginning in Delhi on Thursday(3-11-2011) and travelling through the Indian city's of Lucknow,Varanasi,Gorakhpur finally into Nepal, always in conversation or exchanging travel talks with fellow tourists and backpackers. We walked along the narrow road of Sauraha village towards the elephant stables.All the elephants at the stables were males normally used by the army and forest patrol guards for scouting the Chitwan jungles.Spotted a beautiful tusker and also a tuskless male commonly called “Makhan Elephants” and common in Sri Lanka. .Saw the stable staff preparing elephant food in the form of grains , salt and jaggery mixed and wrapped in green leaves in the form of a wrapped ball.Suddenly news came that a rhino was spotted in the forests opposite the river close to the elephant stables and hence we all proceeded towards the rivers edge to view this mighty beast.For the first time in my life viewed a rhino in the natural wild, the mighty beast grazing peacefully in the open grassland of the forest opposite the river creek with a black drongo bird perched on its back.All the tourists went crazy with camera’s including myself ,and the sight of this huge young male rhino just approx 50 to 75 meters separating us was a unique experience. Agreed, these rhino’s are accustomed to tourists, hence not totally wild but still definitely not domesticated pets, their original horns intact as also their wild freedom and animal instincts.The Rapti river forms the boundary between the main Chitwan protected forests and the forest boundary village of Sauraha in which numerous budget tourists hotels are situated. Sometimes these rhinos from the forests venture close to the park boundary and even into the village during cultivation season , hence our luck at viewing a rhino on our very first wild tour excursion.Also realized that the forest was infested with mosquito's, very natural in jungles.After viewing the rhino we next made our way to the local museum, explaining the flora and fauna of Chitwan and its indigenous village inhabitants, the Tharu villagers.After a brief stop at the Chitwan Park museum we walked along the river bank to finally arrive at "River Sunset restaurant and bar" at approx 1700hrs to view the famous sunset over the Chitwan forests from the opposite banks of the Rapti river. The costliest and poshest hotels are situated inside the Chitwan forests while the forest border town of Sauraha has the economy tourist lodges which are numerous, thanks to the "One Horned Rhino" and the elusive tigers, backbone of a huge tourist economy in Chitwan.The human familiarity of some rhinos within the boundary periphery of Chitwan forests indicates that these animals are least molested by villagers and hence friendly with human tourist incursion into their grazing lands.Most of the tourists sipped beer while watching the sunset while i sipped a sweet Lassi while photographing the same, a beautiful lucky photo of sunset.After sunset we walked back to our hotel with dinner being served at 1900hrs, buffet style. At the dinner table i came across some Australian lady's and a gentleman who belonged to different N.G.O's and were on a years assignment in Nepal called "Aussie Aid Nepal". The backpacking tour experiences of these young ladies was tremendous, a few having visited different continents.Each of them had a different assignment in Nepal with Sally.Carlton, a PhD in history, on an assignment of studying Nepal's recent historic trends and documenting the same.Dinner was interesting conversation and excellent with an "Everest beer(NRs325)" amidst the cold weather.Hotel Parkside had similar surroundings akin to New Annapurna guest house, a farmhouse hotel in the midst of cultivated land and forests.
Sunday(27-11-2011):-Got up early as usual and after a luke warm water bath made my way to the countryside outside the resort premises.Spotted a pigeon box situated in the compound of the village house just outside the hotel gate facing the fields.On inquiry was told that these rock pigeons akin to chickens were bred for food consumption and not as pets.I found a strange difference between Indian Hindu and Nepali Hindu traditions in the fact that Nepalis although extremely devoted Hindus with a small temple or deity at every public street junction are mostly non-vegetarian in culinary habits. This resort hotel was definitely a former farm converted into a farm-house style hotel with German collaboration in hotel partnership as the brochures and hotel literature indicated, having German language in its brochures.

"SUNSET" in Chitwan National Park.

Most tourists were German hence indicating a German ownership of Parkside hotel, myself the only Indian amongst the hotel tourists.Even the toilet facilities were modeled on western style with only “Toilet Paper” in use instead of the normal combination of toilet paper and water tube spray, common in Asian guest hotels.

Today it was to be a river canoe ride along the forests and later a “Jungle trek” in core forests of Chitwan bordering Sauraha village.Suddenly a alarm was sounded that a rhino was spotted grazing in the playground field just across the hotel road. We made a bee-line to the ground and just approx 75 meters away was a rhino grazing on the ground, the river creek being the boundary wall it had crossed, akin to a zoo moat.This was my last video shoot as my memory chip came to an end, sad that my random photography shoots had ended. We finally departed to the hotel leaving the rhino grazing peacefully akin to a buffalo, absolutely lucky to have spotted another rhino on the second day of stay at the resort.Breakfast was typical continental, eggs, bread, butter and jam with a fruit and tea or coffee. Permission for entry into the Chitwan forests had been taken in advance and we all tourists headed towards the forest trail trek after breakfast.Our guide was Mr Gopal.Chapajain, a veteran of 15 years trekking in Chitwan having spent a life-time in these forest surroundings and its unique flora and fauna.En-route to the canoe pier we spotted a wild cat sitting on the walk-path of a field, similar in appearance to the normal tabby cat but smaller. We finally reached the canoe terminus and were divided into groups for boarding the canoe. Our group consisted of three Australian women, a Swiss gentleman and myself along with guide Gopal.The canoe ride began at approx 0800 hrs and was through the snake winding river, shallow in parts but with a very swift current. Guide Gopal explained us the various riverine forest vegetation, most important being the silk-cotton trees and rhino apple trees.Wood from the cotton silk tree is used for making these simple and efficient dug-out canoes while the rhino-apple tree produces the rhino’s favourite fruit which is later re-germinated at other places in the forests through the Rhino’s dung.We spotted peacocks perched high up on the trees, the first time I ever saw peacocks perched that high on the forests and also flying great distances, a spectacular display of natural beauty.Spotted an Osprey eagle and also a serpent eagle, thanks to the birdwatching expertise of guide Gopal. After a boat ride of approx an hour we landed ashore into the main core forest area of Chitwan across the river that separates Sauraha village from these protected forests.We were joined by a local forest guide, a young man named Sunny.Mahatho , a local villager who would assist Gopal in guiding us through these true pure chitwan forests. Guide Gopal gave us brief instructions on safety if encountering either a tiger, elephant or rhino in these dense forests, a hilarious gentleman who combined humour with for companionship! After lunch boarded a bus and headed to serious bird-watching and animal tracking prowess. I was amazed at his knowledge of the forest area and his confidence since any wild animal if encountered is totally unpredictable in behaviour, irrespective of tourist familiarity as are most of the rhino’s that occasionally stray into Sauraha. "Shiva" the old zoo rhino in Mumbai with his horn sawed off once trampled to death a visitor who stepped into his enclosure,Shiva having spent almost 30 years confined to the Byculla zoo cell, hence definitely familiar to humans in close proximity.

This Rhino was a few feet below us at "Elephant Stable" in Sauraha buffer zone.

These lone Rhino’s of Chitwan occasionally cross the  shallow Rapti  river into Sauraha village for grazing and also raiding crops and hence lucky sightings for some tourists including myself.Always remember the cardinal rule in wild-life trekking or observation,respect the animal as it is in familiar habitat and we humans are intruders into its natural habitat.I remember reading Jim.Corbett's "Man eaters of Kumaon" in which he always stresses that the tiger is normally a harmless creature scared of humans in its natural habitat, always avoiding humans although it is the first to notice human encroachment onto its habitat, hence sparing the lives of villagers straying into its domain. I realized the truth of Jim.Corbett's experience when later in the trek observing a old bull rhino with one of the longest horns tolerating us from just 10 to 15 meters distance, although unlike the tiger the rhino is vegetarian but definitely as or more dangerous than a tiger. Our forest trek began at approx 0900 hrs and at approx 0920 hrs we spotted tiger pug-marks near a water hole in the forests.The water-hole resembled a small puddle, akin to stagnant water in a open field and further along the trek we spotted huge cotton silk trees with orchids growing on them.We spotted a grey headed fishing eagle near a waterhole. Wild jungle fowls, Peacocks, barking deer and monkeys were some of the other animals and birds spotted but not a single rhino, elephant or tiger. We did come across elephant dung and also rhino dung, the rhino having a peculiar habit of defecating in a regular place, akin to a toilet and hence an easy prey for poachers familiar with its habits.After an hour of trekking we finally passed through the riverine forests and entered the famous elephant grass countryside of the Chitwan forests.The elephant grass grew upto 6 meters and stretched for miles upto the distant horizon in the hills.Walking through the Elephant grass trek we finally arrived on the banks of the river and walked alongside it. We spotted a lone Gharial sunbathing on the riverbanks, a highly endangered species in the wild.Furthur across the trek we came across tiger scat as authenticated by guide Gopal or was he pulling our legs since I am only familiar with dog and cat scat!I doubt tigers would roam so close to the forest boundaries, besides the tiger numbers in Chitwan are negligible compared to Indian National Parks.Have personally visited Bandipur, Mudumulai and Nagarhole in Karnataka(South India) more than once, never spotting the elusive tiger, let alone pug marks.Further down the Rapti river trek we spotted two gharials and three mugger crocodiles basking on the river bank.From the flat plains of Chitwan forests one gets a magnificent view of the Annapurna mountain range with a true depiction of their natural heights unlike in Pokhra where Mount Machhapuchhre(Fish Tail Mountain) dominates the Annapurna mountain range,although only just 6993 meters in height.From Chitwan forests, the peaks of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu, all over 8000meters are distinctly visible in the horizon.As we walked we spotted the rare Brahminy Duck, a migratory species from Siberia, always found in pairs and mate for life.We suddenly stomped in the path of a hidden pair of Brahminy ducks and an adjutant stork that took flight on seeing us, a beautiful spectacle of flight in the air.A small baby crocodile was spotted on the opposite river bank, absolutely camouflaged to the brown colour of the ground mud.We finally reached the river crossing at approx 1115 hrs, the narrowest point to cross over to the Sauraha side of the river bank from the dense Chitwan jungles, the same path also trekked by straying rhino's that we tourists are sometimes lucky to spot.We crossed the river experiencing the tendency of the swift currents to sweep our feet from ground, a slight slip meaning a cold dip in the shallow water.On crossing the river we made our way towards the elepahant stables which were empty, all the tuskers out at work in the forests.Suddenly guide Gopal drifted from us and headed towar, modeled on the World famous ds a elephant stable beckoning us to come over, absolutely excited. Behold, right below the stable which was on elevated ground compared to the forest floor was one of the oldest bull rhinos grazing.The rhino was just approx 20 meters away from us, unmindful of our presence and grazing akin to a domestic buffalo.His horn was worn out due to age which guide Sunny estimated at around 40 years of age, a true survivor of the Chitwan forests which was prone to poaching and we were lucky to view this giant specimen of a beast.This beast reminded me of Shiva, the old lonely rhino of the Mumbai zoo, only difference, Shiva's horn was cut while this beast had its worn out horn intact,depicting its true existence in the wild forests of Chitwan. Sally.Carlton, myself and guide Mahantho were the last tourists to take leave of the V.I.P Rhino that graced our visit to this park,totally unmindful of our presence though we were just only a few steps away from him.I cursed my luck for exhausting my film memory chip and requested Sally to post me some photos of this magnificent encounter , the closest a person could get to a wild rhino in a natural forest.Imagine, we toured the dense jungles of Chitwan for hours without spotting a single rhino, but here, out of the forests in the village we have spotted one of the oldest wild rhino's of Chitwan.We finally made our way to the hotel happy to have seen a rhino at unbelievably close distance, absolute value for money on a wild-life tour.Lunch was at 1230 hrs , typical vegetarian continental food.Our next jungle tour was scheduled for 1530 hrs, an elephant ride into the Chitwan jungles.Idle, i made my way towards the village fields with sunflower plants being the main crop.Saw paired fowls penned in enclosures, one with an egg laid,a typical country village house.The view of the Annapurna's was magnificient in the clear afternoon skyline, all peaks recognisable.Came back to my hotel and found that load shedding was in progress,a typical problem in Nepal.

"ELEPHANT STABLE" in Sauraha. We spotted a rhino grazing below this stable!

At 1515 hrs all tourists boarded the jeeps and we headed towards the elephant ride stables.We arrived at the elephant ride site at 1530 hrs and were queued in groups of four tourists to an elephant.My group consisted of a Mexican gentleman, a American lady and a Thai gentleman besides the mahout.The elephants were all females as males are considered dangerous for tourist rides, used only for forest patrolling by the forest guards.We mounted our elephant named Poonamkali and our ride into the forests began at 1530 hrs.I have viewed numerous elephant jungle rides on television,films and print media but experiencing a personal tour of the forests on an elephant was a totally humbling experience.We were extremely lucky in spotting Sambar,barking deer, peacocks and a leopard or tiger kill remains during our ride.To our "Rhino's Luck" we were the first to spot a female rhinocerous with her calf,grazing in the open ground at approx 1600 hrs.Our elephant gradually approached the mother and calf our mahout informing the other elephants following us, the ultimate in elephant safari photography and viewing.Suddenly, the rhino and calf were surrounded in a circle by seven elephants with tourists on them busy clicking.The female rhino had a radio collar and the calf had an undeveloped horn, hiding besides its mother. The scene was straight out of a painting, photograph or film scene if viewed from a birds eye view, a rhino and calf totally encircled by elephants.The female rhino was definitely afraid of the elephants and hence stood in the same place, scared to break through the elephant chain cordon.

Lucky and rare candid  photo in Sauraha(Buffer Zone) with a Rhino on the  opposite side of the Rapti  river 

The discipline and handling of these elephants by their mahouts was a demonstration on obedience, excellent.After all tourists were finally exhausted of photographing and videotaping the rhinos the elephant chain finally opened and we made our way deeper into the forests entering open "Elephant Grass" territory. The best finale was wading through the dense 6 meter high "elephant Grass" something amazing and frightening if unaccustomed to forest trails with elephant Poonamkali breaking shoots of elephant grass and handing it to its mahout.The elephant grass is very tough to break unlike ordinary grass, definitely requiring an elephants strength to pluck it from the ground.Towards the end of our ride we came across a few women running into the jungles, being shouted by the forest guards.These women entered the Chitwan forests to cut elephant grass, the same strictly banned and only allowed by the forest officials during the month of January for a period of 10 to 15 days on payment of a nominal fee. Our ride finally ended at approx 1700 hrs, almost over an hour, the longest time i ever sat on an elephant.At the elephant dismounting enclosure we got down and some tourists fed the elephants bananas.We were finally driven to our respective hotels, reaching Parkside hotel at approx 1730hrs.Our next itinerary for the evening was a "Tharu Dance presentation" scheduled in the hotel premises at 1800hrs.The "Tharu Dance" was presented on the hotel lawn and started at approx 1630 hrs compered by guide Gopal.Chapajain. It was a grand presentation of tribal folk dance with a demonstration of Kungfu type martial skills by means of a pair of sticks.The fire stick swirling show by a tharu performer was mind-boggling, definitely of International circus performance skill.The "Tharu Dance" show ended at approx 1850 hrs the finale being some tourists joining the tribals in a dance, including myself.dinner was at 1900hrs , typical non-veg buffet, chicken being the main dish and the same eaten with "Gurkha Beer(NRs325)", end of a wonderful days trek and entertainment.

"RICE CULTIVATION" in Pokhara.

Monday(28-11-2011):-Last day in Nepal, will be departing to India later in the morning.As usual, a early insomniac riser, got up and strolled in the countryside farm outside the hotel gate appreciating village life at its purest form , early in the morning.Today, Mr Rajkumar.Rijaal whom i mistook for a ordinary driver the first day he arrived to collect me from Sauraha bus terminus, a jack-0f-all employee of "Parkside Hotel" had arranged for a bird-watching tour of the forests.Barring the Swiss gentleman, rest of the bird-watching tourists were mostly a group of elderly ladies, and our trekking into the forests began at 0630hrs.i was surprised at Mr Rajkumars eyesight at spotting and identifying birds, besides he carried a "Bird Identification book" for authentication and display to us novice bird-watchers.We walked along the Rapti riverside and during our walk came across peacocks on trees akin to normal high flying birds.There was a thick fog across the river, visibility reduced to less than 100 meters.Spotted the rare migratory Brahminy duck but not a single rhino,even past the elephant stables where we spotted a rhino just 10-15 meters away yesterday morning.This proves the fact that luck and season does play a role in wild-life safari tours and i have read numerous blogs where tourists have reported of not even seeing a monkey let alone a rhino in the Chitwan forests.The manner in which our package tour group spotted rhino's it would seem that rhino's were common place in Chitwan, hence every tourists view of Chitwan forests would differ.It was a short tour through the forests that ended at 0745 hrs and i later had my breakfast,continental as usual.Assembled my luggage at the reception lobby, departure to bus terminus scheduled at 0900hrs.My tour of Nepal exposed me to the authentic professional backpacker tourist traveler and i was humbled by some of their travel exploits.Young delicate looking women would carry backpacker luggage that would make a strong well-bodied man blush with inferiority complex.Some backpackers literally didn't have a "RESIDENCE ADDRESS", living almost half the year traveling to different countries!I wonder whats the secret of their finances since all would definitely not be multimillionaires in their respective countries, most from First World developed countries.As for understanding Nepal as a country i was surprised that beggary was almost non-existent in Kathmandu,Pokhara or Chitwan, the city's i visited.In Mumbai,most Nepali women were stereotyped as cheap whores in the world's once largest brothels of "Pila House" and "Kamatipura" while Nepali men, other than the famed "Gurkha Soldiers" of the Indian Army were mostly stereotyped as low paid guards in private and public Enterprises.In the Nepali city's i visited, never ever came across a whore seducing customers, although came across a lot of poor Nepali women.Dance bars existed in Thamel locality of Kathmandu as in any large tourist destination, nothing abnormal.My personal opinion as an Indian and an outsider was that Nepal is a beautiful country with its own human paradoxes undecipherable to foreign tourists.The very fact that one of the World's bloodiest modern Royal massacres took place in Nepal, the mystery unsolved , resulting in the final abolition of Monarchy after a ten year civil war indicates the paradoxes of this Himalayan country, once a kingdom.Ironically, the "Narayanhiti Palace",scene of the bloody royal massacre, now converted to a museum displaying former Nepal Royalty life and ceremonies receives the maximum number of tourists, both local and foreigners, proving that Royalty still fascinates the average Nepali.When "Slum Dog Millionaire" a partly autobiographical film on Mumbai city was produced by British director Danny.Boyle it was severely criticized by elite Mumbaikars for the depiction of Mumbai in bad light, although poverty and extreme differences in wealth is distinctly obvious in Mumbai city to the average tourist.As an outsider and a tourist these views expressed by me are my personal opinions and observations.
At 0900 hrs the jeep arrived at Parkside hotel and myself and another couple headed towards Sauraha bus terminus, end of a memorable wild-life holiday in Chitwan as well as an end to the Nepal tour. This time Rajkumar sent his assistant to arrange our tickets at the bus terminus.Purchased a tabla(NRs1000) from a hawker at the bus terminus and boarded the bus. A elderly French lady Franciene was seated next to me and i was amazed at her tour knowledge of Sauraha, having a tourist map along with a "Lonely Planet" guide book.Most passengers were tourists, the bus packed to capacity.Lunch was at approx 1245 at Hotel Vyavsahi at Shunowal, the border town of Bhairawa being just 50Kms away.We finally reached Bhairawa bus terminus at approx 1400 hrs, the Indian border town of Sunauli being approx 2 to 3 Kms from the bus terminus. Franciene and myself shared a cycle-rickshaw at NRs140/Person finally reaching the Nepali border check-post at Bhairawa, French national Franciene alighted  for immigration purposes while i proceeded directly across the border to the Indian town of Sunauli. At Sunauli boarded a "Share-a-Taxi" Tata Indica cab, the cost being Rs 150/person.The cab was packed with six passengers,a total of seven including the driver.Adjusted my watch to Indian time as Nepal time is 15 minutes ahead of Indian time.The cab finally left Sunauli at approx 1430 hrs and it was a cramped road journey to Gorakhpur. We had a stop-over at Gurung restaurant and cottage for tea finally reaching Gorakhpur at approx 1700hrs. Gorakhpur is one of the dirtiest Indian city's i have visited, having visited most coastal Indian city's besides the main major Megalopolis city's of India.At Gorakhpur i realized that my Vodafone cellphone was non-functional and hence dialled home from a local S.T.D booth.The road opposite Gorakhpur station is one of the dirtiest, road side dhabba's existing along with pure roadside trash and gutters.Entered the station and after confirming my train arrival time deposited my trolley bag at the luggage cloak room.As i had ample time before departure at 2135 hrs decided to spend time at an internet cafe.As soon as i exited the station there was the usual load shedding and the entire locality was in darkness, hence decided to spend the hours exploring the vicinity of the railway station.Discovered a liquor shop where drinking was allowed in the sub-alleyway of the road and hence drank a kingfisher beer(Rs 90), definitely cheaper than the average price of NRs 150/beer in Kathmandu let alone the astronomical NRs 325 charges in Chitwan resorts.After beer searched the numerous roadside eateries for good fish food finally having a fish curry with parathas at Janata hotel opposite the railway station.This was the first fish dish i ate after leaving Mumbai on Wednesday(2-11-2011), relishing the dabba food and hoping my bowels would digest it.The road side dabbas at Gorakhpur are really cheap with a fish curry/roti/rice costing only Rs 30, unbelievabley true, only handicap being the massive filth around these dabba's.Since i ate the same dish in a restaurant it cost me Rs 90 with an extra helping of Parathas, cheap and delicious. After dinner strolled along the street near the station, wondering the reasons for Gorakhpur streets being filthy and bizarrely also a reason for its notoriety!Arrived at the station and collected my luggage finally boarding the "12541/GKP LTT Sup Express" train at 2115 hrs on platform Nos 2 which was an extension of platform Nos 1.Gorakhpur has one of the longest platforms in Asia which include platform 1 and 2 as a single elongated platform.Boarded coach S4 and checked into lower berth seat Nos 68.This was my first train travel experience to North India's Hindi heartland and i was saddened by the manner in which passengers commuted.Former Indian Minister of external affairs Mr Shashi.Tharoor once passed a remark that most Indians traveled "Cattle Class" for which he was reprimanded and i wonder if he was referring to North Indian railways passenger travel, although i think he must have referred to economy travel on planes.The train was prompt in departure and my boggie was filled with passengers, most without a reserved berth.At night unreserved passengers were sleeping all over available space in the compartment, much worse than traveling on a Mumbai local train at peak rush hour.Spent an entire restive sleepless night awaiting morning daylight.
Tuesday(29-11-2011):- Experienced authentic second class train travel in a crowded train,this journey being my longest on a train in my life.Thankfully my co- berth travelers were friendly young people and we discussed various local topics.The person on the opposite berth Mr Ishrar was traveling with his niece and he had a hosiery business in Mumbai, explaining me the economics of the hosiery business. Ishrar also made me witness the addiction of tobacco chewing since he always chewed tobacco continuously while awake, a bizarre addiction since i was only accustomed to smoking, drinking and gambling addicts."Pan-Parag" was a popular sales item by the train hawkers to other passengers.The other youngster above my lower berth was a normal employee who traveled frequently on this train to his native village in Gorakhpur. He told me that all trains departing from Gorakhpur were always crowded and he once traveled the entire approx 31 hours journey standing, common amongst second class travelers on this route.Toilet usage was a problem, least of all the trouble in getting to the toilet between rows of people squatting on the train floor.The scenery outside the train was magnificent with sprawling wheat fields lined up-to the horizon, besides, the weather was cool and hence the journey tolerable.At approx 1345 hrs the infamous Chambal hills were visible in the distance,a dacoit territory decades ago, now barring the hills, most of the surrounding land was converted into farmland.Observed that both the states of Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh mostly used tractors for agriculture with field holdings being large.At 1515 hrs reached Bhopal station synonymous with the Bhopal gas tragedy and later in the night at approx 2100 hrs reached Bhusaval station in Maharashtra.Managed to get some sleep at night waking up at 0230hrs and anxious to alight at Mumbai. Our train finally arrived at Lokmanya Tilak station in Mumbai at approx 0400 hrs.Alighted the train and walked out of the station boarding a rickshaw to Sion and later catching a Santro taxi to home in Prabhadevi, the total fare amounting to Rs 200.So this was the end of the longest "Solo Travel Odyssey" of my entire life, having traveled through 5 different long distance trains,5 long distance buses and a Aeroplane sightseeing tour.The entire "Solo Tour" commenced in Mumbai on Wednesday(2-11-2011) and ended in Mumbai on Wednesday(30-11-2011).